Many months back I promised that if there were events that were cruise-news worthy I would issue a newsletter. Well, such an event has occurred.

It is with great sadness that I send this. The man whom many consider to have been the greatest captain to sail the seven seas, has passed away. I am of course speaking of Captain Jean Marie Guillou.

Though I knew Captain well I cannot tell you of his birthplace nor the events of his childhood. I cannot tell you about his early career and how he became a seaman. I can tell you about a man who touched everyone he met and transformed them, as if by magic, into being the best people they could be.

He would walk the corridors of the ship every morning just to say hello to the crew. He poked his head into the laundry and the galley. Everywhere he went the crew followed behind him like a Piped Piper lingering in his aura which sparkled with humor and wit.

Over the years I have thought about his leadership style and how it was that he was able to instill in those around him such an uncanny sense of value. He made everyone feel like they were indispensable. When he spoke of someone for whom he had high regard he always said, “he is a good man.” You knew this was an unconditional endorsement of the person’s moral character. No jokes. No games.

I have plenty of Captain Guillou stories. Brian O’Brien and I were ardent admirers of the Captain and collectors of the stories we were privileged to hear. Sometimes it was not so much the story as the way it was delivered. It was Captain Guillou who first said he was a mixture of Maurice Chevalier and Inspector Clouseau!There were the storeis about the Sudanese crewmen on the cargo ship who were near starvation in the Arctic Circle during Ramadan - no one realized that the sun was not setting and these men could not eat until it did. Or the time when a now-defunct cruise line could not pay its port fees and resorted to plundering the ship’s casino’s slot machines and paying the past-due port fees in quarters. And then there was the evening a very pretentious family asked the Captain to taste a fine wine they had decanted just because he was French.He raised the glass to inspect the color, he swirled the glass and admired the legs, he smelled the wine to absorb its aroma and then he held the glass to his ear to listen to — who knows what? The look on their faces as they scrambled to remember this part of wine-tasting protocol was priceless.

I hope those of you who had the pleasure of cruising with Captain Guillou will raise a glass to your ear and toast an original. He was a good man.

This South America season the Seabourn Sojourn is cruising between Valparaiso, Chile and Buenos Aires, Argentina. Through the Chilean fjords and around Cape Horn, this is one of the most popular segments of a South American cruise; and for that reason they are going to be repeating it for the entire two and a half month season.

When the Sojourn came through Montevideo, guests and crew came-up to see my new apartment. They had just come from Port Stanley in The Falklands, where they had a glorious day and saw king penguins, etc. The next day the cruise was to end in Buenos Aires. Some of you may know that Argentina has been raising concerns again about the sovereignty of The Falklands and has been threatening to not allow cruise ships into Argentina that have been to The Falklands. My friends said they did not know what impact if any their visit would have.

After the next cruise began in Buenos Aires, the Soujourn stopped in Montevideo where again I had lunch with the same friends. It seems the Argentines were not happy that the ship had gone to the The Falklands and told them they would be unwelcome in the country were they to do it again. Well, as it is part of their published itinerary - they did. As luck would have it weather was bad and they could not get in to port; nevertheless they had committed themselves in the attempt.

The next stop was to be Ushuaia, Argentina. They were informed they were not welcome and were being labeled a “pirate ship.” The ship went on to Chile where extra time was added in Puerto Montt. No final decision has been made regarding how to handle the rest of the season.

Seabourn is not the only cruise line affected by Argentina’s actions; Holland-America, Princess, Oceania, and Regent have similar itineraries. They have only two choices; eliminate the call in The Falklands or avoid all Argentine ports. Avoiding all Argentine ports includes Buenos Aires which is not only a major draw for guests but is also the turn-around port where cruises begin and end. Without Buenos Aires additional arrangements must be made to fly passengers in and out of nearby Montevideo - that could be costly. Eliminating The Falklands is much easier but takes away the much relied upon revenue from the seasonal cruise ship visits.

For a good look at the down line affect on the community please click on the link.

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/cruises/cruise-news/9741833/Cruise-ship-row-strangling-Falkland-Islands.html

>I have received many, many requests to see more of the progress being made in my apartment in Montevideo. Let me say, the work is not done by any means but things are getting better and better.

I moved in officially in September. The place was damp and dank as the windows had been closed and the moisture trapped in the walls prior to the completion of the new roof was now evaporating inside. My new paint and plaster was a mess. I still do not have heat or air conditioning installed so there was no way to dry the place out until summer. The temperatures seemed to change overnight and by November; we went from rainy, cold winter to hot, sunny summer. The walls dried rapidly once the windows were left open. Had I been able to stay in town longer I could have started to replaster, paint and finally decorate to make the place as I had hoped.

In the meantime I shopped online via Mercado Libre; the Latin American equivalent of Craig’s List and eBay together. The way it works is you can arrange to see an item before you buy it and decide if you want it or you can buy it, see it and still decide if you want to go through with the transaction. I bought a leather chair and a small couch for the time being; my big find was an incredibly ornate 19th century antique Verseille chandelier that I hope to hang in my hallway which is the physical and symbolic heart of the home. It will be fun.

So with that - take a look! If anyone is planning a trip to Montevideo, I am planning on putting into the rental pool while I am away. $90.00 a night for an entire two bedroom apartment is not bad. The W hotel across the street charges $380!

It all started innocently enough; I was to be the Study Leader for a group of 37 through the Panama Canal from New York to Los Angeles. The group of Road Scholars consisted of a wonderful multi-generational mix of travelers interested in learning. Love it! Everything was according to plan until little white swirls started to appear on the images taken by weather satellites high over the coast of Florida. As those swirls grew progressively larger the media had already dubbed it, “Frankenstorm!”

Coming up from Montevideo to New York was a twenty-seven hour flight. Like thousands of others I got delayed and rerouted avoiding the NYC area entirely.I was lucky I eventually flew to Charleston where the ship - Crystal Symphony - was now waiting. My fellow Road Scholars were not so lucky; many had already flown into New York and were stuck. The ship could not enter New York Harbor so it was directed to go to Charleston from Boston.The group in New York had to charter a bus and drive to Charleston. When they finally arrived I was waiting to greet them at the entrance of the Mills House; after flying 27 hours I was hoping for an early night - but as they trudged past me I could see that is exactly what they wanted as well! Miraculously everyone arrived in relatively good humor thanks in a large part to the buoyant spirit of Group Leader Valerie Hershfield.

The next day we boarded the Crystal Symphony along with all the other passengers who had been rerouted. I had the pleasure of touring the Symphony in Alaska last year during a book signing; I was impressed then and was again once back onboard. Cruising as a guest was an unexpected delight. I now can understand why people like this whole thing - it was pretty nice!

I gave one or two talks every sea day in addition to the host of formal lectures by other enrichment speakers onboard. Having never worked with Road Scholar before I was impressed by the interest level of the group which was multi-generational. Road Scholar - aka Elderhostel - is reaching beyond its prveious demographic to attract younger travelers with an ardent interest in travel as an educational experience. I think many were disappointed in the cruise aspect of the trip - not that the ship wasn’t exceptional - but the many independent options available onboard seemed to dilute some of the cohesiveness created on other trips. Nevertheless we had a great transit through the Canal which was the focus of the program.

Dining together as a group I had a chance to learn more about everyone and Road Scholar. Many within the group have taken upwards of 70 trips. Due to the educational aspect of the organization Road Scholar programs include some very interesting, non-traditional destinations like Cuba! I was fascinated to hear about week long trips that focused on a stately home or an art exhibit. Programs include land-based trips as well as cruises on large and small ships. For more information contact: www.roadscholar.org

It is with great sadness that I am writing of the passing of one cool dude - Bill Stubbs - left us on October 21, 2012, in Ocala, Florida.

Those who had the pleasure of hearing his opinions on current affairs and global issues may not have known the extent to which Bill lived his life. Modest, humble, and extremely funny you would never imagine the harrowing situations he encountered in dangerous and exotic places. As I did not have all the facts, I asked his wife Tonette if she would kindly send me accurate details. What she sent me was the obituary Bill wrote for himself:

>The only son of William and Rachel Stubbs, he was born in Valdosta, Georgia, October 9, 1934. He graduated from Darlington School in Rome, GA, then studied at Duke University, Emory University and the London School of Economics, receiving BA and MA degrees in International relations.
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>Stubbs served in the U.S. Army, 1956 - 1959, with duties in military intelligence in France and Germany. He then taught at the Oxford College of Emory University until 1962, when he began his career in the U.S. Foreign Service. He served with the United States Information Agency and Department of State in Malaysia, Cambodia, Vietnam, Taiwan, Hong Kong, Hungary, China, the Philippines and Thailand.
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>In 1979 he was among the corps of foreign services officer who reopened the embassy in Beijing. He directed U.S. refugee programs for Indochinese refugees in the Philippines and Thailand until his retirement in 1985.
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>Twice divorced, he married Antoinette Atienza of Manila, Philippines in 1983 with whom he spent the last 30 years of his life.
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>His post-retirement career was as eventful as his Foreign Service career, with consulting work in Washington and Hong Kong, and finally as a noted lecturer aboard cruise ships bound for Asia, Europe and other ports of call.
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>He lived in Washington, DC; Amelia Island, Jacksonville and finally Ocala, Florida.
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>One of his passions was promoting better understanding among Americans of the cultures and peoples of Asia, where he had spent much of his career. An active
Executive Board Member of the World Affairs Council of Jacksonville, he frequently lectured at educational institutions in the region.
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>He served as Vice President of the Foreign Correspondents Club in Hong Kong, was a member of the Bangkok Foreign Correspondents Club, the American Foreign Service Association, Diplomats and Consular Officers Retired (DACOR) and the Association of Former Intelligence Officers.
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>Stubbs is survived by his wife Antoinette Stubbs of Ocala, FL; his son Christopher Stubbs of Cambridge, MA; his son Robert Stubbs of Shillinglee, UK; sisters Rachael “Binky” Farris and Carolyn Aschemeyer; his grandchildren Alexander, Rebecca, Charlie and Lara; his step-children Miriam Smith, Marie Sison and Peter Sison, his step-grandchildren Theo Smith, Christina Rodillas, Trevor Sison, Caitlin Smith, Hannah Smith, and Chris Rohrer; and his step great grandchild, Nicholas Rodillas.

Antarctica truly is the last frontier. The lure of the White Continent has called to explorers and adventurers; whalers and furriers; scientists and conservationists.

During the past thirty years tourists have also ventured beyond the notorious Drake Passage to explore Antarctica with its smoldering volcanic beaches, islands filled with squawking penguins and magnificent blue tabular icebergs. Most of those tourists arrived by ship. Due to the increase in ships of various size and shape, and the environmental threat they pose, in 2011 the Antarctica Treaty Organization started to regulate tourism by prohibiting in Antarctic waters any ship that burns “heavy fuel.” (See my blogs of 2010-07-30 No more big ships in Antarctica after August 2011 and 2010-02-20 Antarctica tightens restrictions on cruise ships.)

The new regulation excluded all but small, expeditionary-type vessels and larger ships that can burn lighter, cleaner fuel. In response to the demand for Antarctic itineraries Crystal Symphony will be returning to Antarctica in 2013/2014, as will Azamara Quest, Holland America’s Prinsendam, Princess’s Star Princess, and last but not least, the Seabourn Quest will make its inaugural cruise. Though most of the larger ships will do only “scenic sailing” (no landings allowed for ship carrying over 400 passengers) Crystal does advertise that it includes “a boots on the ground experience” which looks to be a flight and landing.

While onboard the Crystal Symphony I had the opportunity to ask Captain Egil Giske how the Symphony will comply with the new environmental regulations. He explained that the new Antarctic requirements are exactly the same as those imposed upon ships in the State of California. I had a chance to look into those requirements and it looks like the switch to a lighter, cleaner, more eco-friendly fuel requires no alteration to the engine department however it is more expensive. According to the number of ships back in the market looks like the cost of the expense can be off-set by the demand for the destination.

I have not heard of any immediate plans for Regent’s return to Antarctica but all I can is, I’m ready!

Okay, I know that many of you are anxious to know how everything is here in Montevideo. Well, first of all, my apartment which is in an old building in the Old City - Ciudad Vieja - is still not completely complete. It is liveable and I am here. Details to follow.

This area is going through a lot of changes. Since I was last here there are very chic stores including La Opera, from Buenos Aires, right here on the corner of the pedestrian street Sarandi. More cafes. Some very exclusive looking little restaurants and a new “W-style” hotel on my street corner. My neighbor, Andres, is a terrific young man who has invested a considerable amount of money in restoring his place. We are just the two of us on the upper floor. He did what I would have liked to have done - restoring everything. But then he has had the time and money; me not so much.

One thing that we both needed new was a roof. As inspections are not required here nor does the owner need to disclose anything about the condition of the place, neither Andres nor I were aware that all our investment would be for not if we didn’t get a new roof on fast. So we did. Amazingly, it was completed two days before what is being called The Storm of The Century; hurricane force winds and terrible rain. Our new roof held but as I was not here for the weeks that followed, all the moisture that would normally escape through the roof is now coming through the walls. As a result all my new plaster is blistered and I have outbreaks of mold. Nothing that can’t be fixed but it needs to be dried out — big time. Paper becomes soggy. My clothes feel like damp rags. My hair looks like a poodle. I am buying a dehumidifier which should help and soon it will be summer.

My kitchen is really cute. My dear friends Shirley and Jorge did an incredible job sourcing the tiles and granite. I would not give any awards to the kitchen “designer” - I have never seen a kitchen where you cannot stand in front of the sink and have to move the stove to get to cabinets - but considering what it looked like before - no complaints.

Last February, Elda Pauluzzi and I bought the appliances. It would have been nice if the “designer” would have taken their size into consideration but again, no complaints. The one thing I was so excited about was an Italian washer/dryer combo - came in at almost $900. I was assured it was installed and worked. Yesterday I gave it a test run — oh boy! I don’t know where the drainage hose goes but I do know it ends up on the other side of the kitchen on the floor. The place was flooded. Then the machine began spin cycle — because this thing uses centrifugal force to dry - it is really, really powerful. It started to bash the counter which started to crack. Then it walked out like Robby the Robot and hit the stove. Scratched the new hardwood floors before unplugging itself. Because the machine was still filled with water I had to hold it through four spin cycles before it drained into a bucket! Mama mia! I pushed it back into the counter and continued the dry cycle which was quiet and uneventful — and very dry. Think this puppy is going to have to find a new home.

I have an incredible new bathroom. My cute little bathtub is perfect for me. I adore having individual water heaters for HOT water on demand. The bathroom’s upper surfaces are not fixed yet - again waiting the drier conditions.

Old buildings are like children, they need constant attention. I am afraid that as I will soon be leaving again the apartment will digress without someone here staying on top of all the little issues. I cannot yet do a final painting nor can I buy furniture until everything is dry. Shirley and Jorge left me a few things to use for the time being; it doesn’t look as beautiful as I had been dreaming about - but it’s okay.

Good news is that property values are going through the roof - so anyone looking to buy here or along the beach - now would be the time!

More later.

For the last few weeks of the Alaska season I was so excited; I was going on vacation! Southwest had “dinged” me with an offer of 50% off the lowest online fare IF travel was on one day of the week during September. I thought - I could do that. Now where to go?

For someone who has had the great fortune to walk The Great Wall of China; stay in a Buddhist monastery in Koyasan, Japan; watch wildebeests at a watering hole at daybreak in Kruger National Park in South Africa; and drink Blood Mary’s at the original Blood Mary’s in Bora Bora; where would you REALLY want to go? My answer: Washington D.C.

Just the fact that was my answer was very significant to me. I knew about the history and artifacts of so many countries; it was time I learned something about my own!

As I started to organize and anticipate my week, I was surprised how emotional all this was. In planning my expenses I could not believe that all the museums were free - that is not the case in most countries. That gesture of inclusion really made me feel like this was my history - and in a tiny way by paying my taxes and doing my part, I am contributing toward maintaining this incredible legacy.

I wanted to start where all this started - with the Declaration of Independence. I did not know if it was even available to the public - again, in many countries this would not be the case. But there it was in the National Archives, along with the Constitution and Bill of Rights. Really mind-boggling how something conceived by a group of “rebels”, many of whom were wealthy slave-owners, could stand the test of time and evolve into the standard of justice and liberty now endowed across age, race, gender, ethnicity, and religion. I was so moved I bought a pocket version in the gift shop!

Onward, I jumped to the National Mall and began my tour of all the museums within The Smithsonian. Yes, all. In my seven days I managed to log in an average of 15 miles walking, every day! I began with the Museum of American History - by far my favorite. It was very moving to see things like the original Star Spangled Banner and the hat President Lincoln wore to Ford’s Theater the evening he was shot. Lincoln placed the hat on the chair next to him; after he was wounded he was taken across the street where he died; the hat was removed and had been hidden away for years, only recently has been put on display.

On my list of priorities was the new American Indian Museum which turned out to be my greatest disappointment. Beautiful building, very poor presentation of so much material. On to the Museum of Air and Space; whoppee!! This was better than Disneyland: Apollo 11 space capsule; original Wright Brother’s plane; Spirit of St. Louis; Neil Armstrong’s lunar landing suit - all too cool! Have to admit running through all the various museums of art except the National Portrait Gallery; I spent a lot of time here. In one tiny photo I saw the face of Mary Ann Brown Patten, a 19 year old woman who at seven months pregnant skippered her husband’s clipper ship the Neptune’s Car around Cape Horn after her he feel ill with tuberculosis and his second officer was in the brig for insubordination - amazing stories.

I treated myself to an evening at the theater;went to see Kathleen Turner in Red Hot Patriot. That was fun. I loved Molly Ivins and enjoyed the way the play was done. I also took Saturday morning off to go to the Eastern Market; one of the oldest neighborhood markets in the country. That was fun. Felt very “in-the-know” to be fighting for vintage jewelry with Washington socialites.

Walked through Georgetown. Walked to Dupont Circle. Went to National Geographic. Walked to St. John’s Church and sat in Lincoln’s pew. Cruised the White House. Went to the Library of Congress national book fair. Went to Washington Monument; Lincoln Memorial; WWII Memorial, Vietnam Memorial.

Final day, I went to the National Botanical Gardens, which were lovely, and walked around the Capitol Building. Figured I had to see it all, so I walked up past the Office of the House of Representative and to The Library of Congress. I was not prepared for this one; probably the most beautiful building in the city! There were also several very good exhibits including The Americas (with a rare Waldseemüller map) and Comedy and Satire hosted by Stephen Colbert. The Supreme Court facade is being restored so I did not go there. Across the street I saw tourists coming out of The Capitol - I did not know it was open to the public - so I went over to see. Yup, it is and there are tours. So I took one. At the end the guide said if anyone had an invitation to the Senate or House galleries you could go this way or that way. I asked how one got an invitation and he said you needed to ask your state representative. I thought that meant something that would have had to be taken care of before you arrived - not so. The guide said, go next door and ask ‘em. So I did! I ran over to the Senate Offices - went through security - and asked the guard, how do I find my senator? He said New Mexico was not in that building but I could ask anyone with a flag. So I ran down the hall and stumbled into the first office, sign said, Senator Inhofe, Oklahoma. Whoa, nope. I went across the hall. Senator Rand Paul, Kentucky. Oh no! Then I crossed the hall again - I must have looked like a pin-ball - Senator John Kerry, New York. Aah… I can ask you. The Senator’s staffers were laughing like I had just run an obstacle course. How many passes do you want, they asked? I did not realize they could give me both chambers so I took them all. I ran back across the street and did the whole shabang! It was pretty exciting seeing the House Chamber where the President gives the State of The Union. In the Senate Chambers the aide told me which were the candy desks. Very fun. I ended the last day taking the Metro to Alexandria. Phew!

Greatest bargain: Metro Smart-pass. I went everywhere!
Greatest fashion flash-back: Suede elbow patches on the jackets of Georgetown academics.
Best meal: Hard Times Cafe, Alexandria - gotta have the chili!
Greatest cultural experience: Taking the metro with Nationals fans after the game when they won - made lots of friends fast!

On September 18th, I was invited by Karl Storch, of Sun Tours, Albuquerque to do an introduction to Alaska for one hundred of his clients interested in the destination. The event held a the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center was co-hosted by Oceania Cruises.

Sun Tours offers a selection of cruise departures in 2013, including one on Regatta to Alaska, July 12 - 22.

I was told about Karl and Sun Tours by Regent guests who were on with me last year in South America. As a local Albuquerque company I was anxious to meet Karl and Linda (who is charge of all the cruises.) After learning more about their programs I was so impressed I was ready to sign-up especially for a Mystery Tour. That’s right - a Mystery Tour! You sign-up not knowing where you are going nor what you will do; you only know the travel dates and price — the rest is left up to faith and Karl! According to the people in attendance at the presentation, these are Sun Tours’ most popular offerings!

Next time you are up for an adventure, check ‘em out: http://www.suntoursus.com

Many of you already know that effective January 31st, 2013, Mark Conroy will step down as President of Regent Seven Seas Cruises. Here is the official letter:

Dear Travel Partners,

The last few years have been nothing short of spectacular for Regent Seven Seas Cruises (RSSC). Despite a difficult economic environment, we have sailed virtually full for the past two years while achieving the highest yields in the industry. These results are a testament to the strength of our mutual partnerships and the powerful value proposition of providing the Most Inclusive Luxury Cruise Experience in the world.

RSSC has come a long way since we launched the Radisson Diamond in 1992. Since then, we have built the best management and sales and marketing teams in the industry. We have also retained the best Officers and Crew at sea who deliver the luxury cruise experience that your clients have come to expect from us 24 hours a day, seven days a week and 365 days a year.

Recently, Frank, Kunal and I sat down to discuss how we could leverage the talent within the organization for the benefit of our two brands; RSSC and Oceania Cruises. At that time, I also expressed my desire to be instrumental in shaping larger strategic initiatives while cutting back on the day-to-day responsibilities of running an international cruise line and the extensive travel that comes with the job.

Therefore at the end of January next year, I will step down as President of RSSC and become an Executive Advisor to both Frank and Kunal on a series of corporate-wide business strategies across both brands. Please click here to read today’s announcement. While RSSC will always be a part of who I am, this is the right time for me personally to take a broader role in this exciting industry.

Our partnership with you and the commitment to our guests have always come first. I have worked side by side with Kunal and, in fact, many of you already know him. As Kunal assumes the President role at RSSC, you should have full confidence as I do that our commitment to you and your clients is our top priority.

Furthermore, I’m pleased to announce that Randall Soy, a 22-year veteran at RSSC and our longest-tenured employee, will be promoted to Executive Vice President of Sales and Marketing at the end of January. Frank, Kunal and I are confident that Randall’s successful track record at RSSC over the last two decades combined with his leadership skills makes him the ideal candidate to support your sales and marketing efforts as we continue to grow our respective businesses together.

Although I will be stepping back from the day-to-day business, please be assured that the legacy of excellence that has been the hallmark of RSSC will continue. I hope that we can count on your support and trust that you will continue to bestow upon us the privilege of delivering to your clients the Most Inclusive Luxury Cruise Experience in the world.

Kind regards,

Mark S. Conroy
President
Regent Seven Seas Cruises