This may seem like a strange subject to blog about on a website promoting cruise travel to Alaska – but it’s something I am asked about each week – “What’s the deal with global warming?”

Global warming has been (excuse the expression) a hot topic of debate over the last ten years made even more popular with the release of former Vice-President Al Gore’s controversial documentary “An Inconvenient Truth.” Guests cruising through the fjords of Alaska where glaciers are the highlight want to know about the reality of the situation.

According to a recent report delivered to the White House by the National Academy of Sciences, Mr. Gore is on the mark. Though critics like Dr. Fred Singer, Professor Emeritus at the University of Virginia dispute the NSA report; it seems his protest is over-shadowed by the countless others who now agree – global warming is a “man-made catastrophe-in-the-making caused by the burning of fossil fuels.” In a poll of the 100 top climate researchers contacted by The Associated Press for their opinion of the data presented in “An Inconvenient Truth” and the 19 scientists who have seen the movie, all said Gore “conveyed the science correctly.” According to William Schlesinger, dean of the Nicholas School of Environment and Earth Sciences at Duke University, “He got all the important material and got it right.”

I am not a climatologist, nor a geologist – but I am keen observer. Cruising through glaciated areas in both the northern and southern hemisphere, it has been my privilege to witness that which most people can only imagine – the unprecedented retreat of glaciers in Chile, Argentina, and Alaska. It does not take a scientist to appreciate the changes that have taken place; changes that would normally occur over hundreds of years are taking place within ten years, even five years. I have watched glaciers that once touched the sea melt up the mountainside; valleys once thick with ice now look like a lunar landscape; mountain tops crowned year-round by ice are bare by mid-summer; herds of migratory animals searching for food, etc. I could go on… Do I believe in global warming? Yes, I do!

On a cruise here in Alaska – what can we see from the ship that points to global warming? Well, for one thing – the glaciers.

Glaciers are categorized as advancing or retreating if over a year they have a net gain or lose of ice. Very few glaciers worldwide are advancing.� In Alaska we are lucky; because of the unique combination of high coastal mountains located so far to the north, moisture from the Pacific gets trapped as snow that contribute to the formation of glacial ice allowing glaciers like Hubbard Glacier to increase in length. Most others are shrinking back. How can you tell? � HINT: Look carefully at the front and sides of the glacier. If the terminus or “snout” is thin and sitting on an area of exposed bare rock you know that ice, once deeper and larger, previously covered the hillside scouring it bare of vegetation. That � glacier is retreating or melting back. If however, the ice is thick and pushing into fresh trees and shrubs, you know that ice is new – stretching and growing.

Another thing you might notice is the decimation of forest lands by insects surviving through more moderate winter temperatures. For those of you sailing to or from Seward, you may see vast areas of the Kenai Peninsula destroyed by the Spruce Bark Beetle. Visible from the ship are huge tracks of land where the needles of the stricken trees have turned brownish-red or fallen off. The beetle attacks only certain types of spruce trees (white and Lutz) but in areas where those trees dominate the landscape the ugly scars they create are a frightening reminder of subtle climate change. According to Alaska State Government Wildlife News, with this destruction also comes the loss of habitat for red squirrels, moose and ruby-crowned kinglets.

My only consolation is that after years of people questioning global warming contentiously, now they are asking questions compassionately. Regardless of whether or not you agree or disagree, constructively demonstrating our collective concern for the long-term health and well-being of our planet – our home - is always a good thing!� � � � � �

Most of my friends know the “v” word does not come up much in my conversation. That “v” word is – Vacation! It is my business to help others take and enjoy vacations but rarely do I act on my own advice. It was with the encouragement and permission of our Captain – Jean Marie Guillou – that I hopped off the Seven Seas Mariner for a quick trip to Yakutat. Granted it wasn’t a hammock under Tahitian palms or 48 hours of indulgence at The Golden Door, but it was a break.

After a glorious visit to Hubbard Glacier we sailed to the mouth of the bay where the Survey Point was waiting to come alongside the Mariner. Though the sea was relatively calm it is required to don a floatation belt to climb down the rope ladder onto the boat. If you have ever seen the ship’s pilot’s getting on or off the ship you know the pilot boat is running at equal speed with the ship in order to make the transfer. The ship slows down, the rope ladder is dropped and the necessary people climb up or down. Depending on how choppy the seas are or how large the swells this could have been the most exciting part of my adventure. But the weather was fine and we had no problems. It was the first time I had seen the ship sail away from me like that. As I watched the Mariner head in the opposite direction I felt like an abandoned seal pup floating away from its mother.

In Yakutat I stayed at The Blue Heron Inn, (http://www.johnlatham.com) a bed and breakfast run by John and Fran Latham. Nestled on a sheltered lagoon, I could not believe the location – the afternoon of my arrival the sun was out and the Wrangell-St. Elias Mountains could be seen in all their glory from the inn’s great room. Eagles too many to count soared above the creek and a few days earlier a moose and her calf were seen grazing a few yards away. One of the reasons I wanted to see Yakutat now was the report of bear sightings in town. After dropping my things and asking Fran’s help in making arrangements for an over-flight of Hubbard Glacier for the following day, I joined two of the Southeast Alaska ship’s pilots waiting in town for “bear patrol.” We drove the four streets of Yakutat - all was quiet. We then drove out 30 miles on a gravel road to Harlequin Lake – a glacially created lake filled with HUGE beached icebergs. The lake and the bergs were unbelievably beautiful. My only regret was not being able to stand still long enough to enjoy the view – the mosquitoes and black flies were thick and love me, so I had to keep moving. We saw lots of fresh tracks but no bears.

After walking and hiking in the fresh air – I was ready for a hot shower and an early night. After 16 summers in Alaska one forgets that without those heavy dead-light curtains on the ship – it’s hard to sleep up here when it’s light at 11pm! Not wanting to appear a wimp; I darkened the room by folding an extra towel over the window and quickly fell asleep.

The next morning was bright and breezy, the mountains were out and it was glorious! Unlike cities that can be dehumanizing; a place like this makes me feel alive. For breakfast we had tender, homemade sourdough pancakes made from starter that Fran said came from Juneau and was over 80 years old. Within an hour the wind picked-up and the clouds blew in. The telephone rang – all flights were cancelled. Undaunted, I set out again on “bear patrol”, this time heading for the dump. En-route I saw a tiny, red squirrel; at the dump – unfortunately, nothing. We then drove to Ocean Cape and walked out to see the northernmost surfing beach in the world – yes, surfing! Not only do people come from all around the world to surf this beach, there is a surf shop! We found it in a residential neighborhood behind the owner’s home. We asked the owners of Icy Waves, Jack and Laura Endicott (www.icywaves.com), what their hours were and were told they were open whenever they were home! From there we went to Cannon Beach to see the old World War II cannon mounts. I also learned that the airstrip built by the military (which is now the city airport) was the longest in the world until just recently. Hearing this I had to go to the airport where I saw the smallest Alaska Airlines counter I have ever seen; en-route another red squirrel crossed the road, and I finished up the day with yet another stop at the dump – still no bears.

The last morning of my grand tour of Yakutat I made a final visit to the dump in hope of seeing at least one bear. Nitz. However admittedly, I did see a good-sized moose at a distance. So, Yakutat Wildlife Scorecard: Bears 0, Moose 1, Squirrels 2.

When I got back onboard, it felt like I had never left. Everything had happened so fast – it was hard to believe that hours before I was in the middle of untamed wilderness walking along a glacial lake gazing at a graveyard of silent icebergs with only the sound of the wind. I need to return.

� Our June 7^th visit to Vancouver was sunny and warm. After two weeks of rain and cold everyone was happy to see blue sky and feel the warmth of the sun. Upon departure we sailed away with heavy hearts fearing that once again we would be overcome by a shroud of miserable weather. Miraculously Southeast Alaska’s weather went from winter to mid-summer seemingly overnight. Ketchikan was not “The Nation’s Rain Capital” as temperatures soared into the low 80’s under sunny skies! Juneau was equally delightful; Skagway the same. As we head toward Sitka and then Hubbard Glacier, I can only hope these glorious conditions will prevail as I ready myself for Terry’s Big Adventure in Yakutat Bay! Details to follow.

So, those of you preparing for your cruise take heart – summer arrived! Though there are no guarantees that conditions will be this nice during your visit (after all this is Alaska!) at least we know the season is not doomed to be a sad and soggy one.

Update – ALASKA! June 5, 2006

Summer 2006 is starting out on a cold and soggy note. We began our first cruise sailing north from Vancouver on the 24th of May; temperatures have been brisk with highs in the mid-50’s! I was forced to make an early visit to the ship’s launderette as I exhausted my supply of thick socks and heavy pants within the first few days! According to my friends in Southeast Alaska winter came late this year and refuses to leave. Normally by June we would see the bright fuchsia blossoms of the fireweed budding out – so far not a trace! However, all is not lost – the lilacs are blooming and the cottonwood trees are lush with bright leaves. The air is filled with the fragrance of yet another Alaskan spring!

So what’s new up here? Other than yet more jewelry stores, progress is taking its time getting to Southeast Alaska.

- Ketchikan is continuing to enhance its city streets; after the completion of the new bi-pass road, Tongass Avenue is being widened. Good news is that now that the heavy machinery is gone from the hillside, the eagles are back in numbers I’ve never seen before. Today I was in a third-floor office along Tongass Avenue and watched as dozens of eagles soared past the windows one after another. I asked the person whose office I was visiting how she was able to get any work done with that kind of acrobatics out the window. I think the binoculars on the window-sill were an indication that even she as a local could not ignore the show!
- Juneau is also investing in its ongoing beautification. Portions of downtown have been made more “pedestrian friendly” with widened sidewalks and round-abouts to slow traffic. For me what is most conspicuous is the amount of new construction across Gastineau Channel on Douglas Island. Huge homes are springing up making the town of Douglas the place to live in the greater Juneau area.
- Skagway looks a like it had a hard winter; many buildings are in need of a fresh coat of paint which is unusual for this notoriously well-groomed little town. I did notice however that the famous, historic Arctic Brotherhood building has been cleaned which probably was a major feat. The building dates back to the Klondike Gold Rush when supposedly only those who had successfully crossed the White Pass or Chilkoot Trails were eligible for membership. The façade is made from small pieces of driftwood donated by Brotherhood members. Over the years the driftwood has darkened with age and dirt from the increasing traffic. Today it is silvery white. The only way I know to clean wood like that is to blast it with a high-tension water hose; however, I can’t imagine them doing that with that fragile, historic� mosaic of� wood. I guess it will be my mission next week to find out how the building was cleaned! Among the other changes, the health food store “You Say Tomato” has relocated to 21st and Main and now includes a bakery with glazed pumpkin cookies that rival those of the now defunct Mabel Smith’s. If you’ve never had one you must try this local tradition – you can justify the cookie by the calories burned in the walk! (At least I do!)

- Sitka has not yet succumbed to the building of a cruise pier in Silver Bay, so for the time being the town remains its authentic and charming self. The only addition since last season is the opening of the new location of Stereo North.� For me the best experience in town is still a walk to the airport for a slice of Alaska’s freshest and finest pie! If you’ve never had “Fruits of the Forest” this is also an Alaskan must – everything in season from rhubarb to berries!

- Yakutat Bay and Hubbard Glacier are alive and well. I am happy to see nothing dramatically different. Because of the colder temperatures spring snow still covers the lower slopes of the mountains and the flanks of the glacier. Once that is melted away I will give you my assessment of the situation.

Speaking of Yakutat Bay; year after year I watch as our pilots disembark the ship at Survey Point to spend the next few days in the town of Yakutat before they once again join us on our southbound cruise. I have often wondered what the town was like; well last week our Tlingit guests were telling us about the bears and moose in town and how much fun it is this year… as I sat listening with yearning, the Captain said, “Next week, Terry, why don’t you go? We will pick you up when we come back from Whittier.” I could not believe it – so, I am going to go! Next week I will disembark on the pilot boat, be taken to town where I will stay two days before re-boarding the ship. I hope to rent a car or catch a ride out to Russell Fjord, to the dump (to watch bears!), and out to one of the many world-famous surfing beaches – no joke! – surfing beaches! You need a very thick dry suit – but wacky surfers from as far as Australia to Alaska to surf! So with the next installment of Terry’s Tips, I’ll let you know what it was like hanging out in Yakutat! Until then, see you around the ship!