Sorry for the delay in posting. I disembarked the 19^th of July and spent some time in the dentist chair before flying back home. Happy to report the choppers are still intact and ready for action.

My last cruise was a southbound from Whittier to Vancouver. The weather continued to be less than ideal with low temperatures, a slight drizzle, and overcast skies. As a native of the Pacific Northwest, I know a little about the local weather patterns. When there is a low pressure over Southeast Alaska there is usually a high pressure over the Pacific Northwest. Rain in Juneau means sun in Vancouver and Seattle and visa versa. So, I was counting on the gloom in Southeast giving way to fair skies for the final days of my cruise - one of my favorite areas of the world – the Inside Passage of British Columbia.

Sure enough, as we sailed south, we left the fog and chill of Queen Charlotte Sound and found blue skies and sunshine in the protected waters east of Vancouver Island. We sailed into Alert Bay and did a few 360° turns in front of the community. You can’t help but wonder what people think when they see a huge cruise ship spinning around in the bay. The focus here is The World Tallest Totem Pole! At 173 feet tall, this pole, carved in two sections, is the tallest free-standing totem pole in the world. As it is Cormorant Island’s version of the Eiffel Tower – you gotta stop and look.

We sailed on ever hopeful that as we entered Johnstone Strait we might see killer whales. Killer whales, also known as orca, travel together in groups known as “pods.” Pods can number from a half dozen whales to over a hundred. Marine biologists track the movement of local pods identifying them by their members that can be individually distinguished due to their unique dorsal fins. In British Columbia there are several resident and transient pods – those that stay in one general area vs. those that roam. They are constantly searching for food, so now that the salmon are running you see many near the salmon spanning rivers and streams.

I had already been on the bridge for over two hours. The light of the afternoon sun was gorgeous and I could not pull myself away even though it was time to clean-up for the weekly captain’s farewell party. Just as I was beginning to think I’d have to leave, off in the distance I noticed what looked like a fishing boat that had stopped east of Robson Bight. Even at a distance of well over ten miles I could see big black dorsal fins and strong vertical blow. I watched a while longer before making an announcement – I wanted to be sure. Yup! Killer whales! And it looked like there were lots.

As we approached, I could see blow all around what I thought was a fishing boat. I alerted those who were within ear shot that we were in for a treat! Luckily we had the time to slow down and really see the show. All around us there were whales! Every time we saw one group submerge another group would blow. Tall fins, short fins, and crooked fins were everywhere. There were a few very large males as evidence by huge dorsal fins easily over 6 feet tall! We watched as the adults swam around the calves while other jumped out of the water belly flopping on their prey in what’s called pounce feeding. In total the estimate was about 44 whales – that may have been low.

Seeing that many beautiful whales in this fabulous location was a real gift. I hope that all those that shared that moment realized how special it was. It was a fitting end to two wonderful months cruising in Alaska.

Mist covers the hillsides; a lone figure is silhouetted against the sky. From the bridge of the ship she cups her hands to her mouth and repeats a call only the behemoths of the sea can hear. Aaa, ooh, ohh, rawhw, ooh…eeeh!� Drawn to her call as though they were in a trance they obligingly come. Like magnets that no force can stop they are attracted to the one they call the Whale Whisperer…� Bzzzz! NOT!

Maybe somewhere, someone like that does exist but its sure not here and it certainly is not me! Nevertheless, I do know where the whales are around SE Alaska and, as this is of major interest to many cruise guests, I thought I’d write a few words about the hot spots where whales are being seen this season.

As I write on July 8, 2006, I can see salmon jumping in Gastineau Channel, the body of water in front of Alaska’s capital city of Juneau. The sockeye are running which means anytime is a good time to spot killer whales. Some people object to the name killer whale and prefer “orca”. I like “killer whale” as these toothed whales are carnivores and among nature’s most elegant and efficient hunters. Here in Alaska they fed primarily on seals and salmon. Now that the salmon are abundant, pods of killer whales can be seen throughout SE Alaska and coastal British Columbia. The most reliable place for spotting killer whales is still Robson Bight along Johnstone Strait in British Columbia. Just south of Cormorant Island (home of Alert Bay and the world’s tallest totem pole); Robson Bight is a shoal that contains smooth stones upon which the whales enjoy rubbing their stomachs. Killer whales are unmistakable; when they surface their tall vertical dorsal fins look like rudders. The dorsal fin on large males can be 4-5 feet tall! They usually travel together in small groups or “pods” and hunt cooperatively. Toothed whales have only one blow hole so when they surface their exhalation is one vertical shot.

There are several species of baleen whales in the North Pacific but in Alaska, at this time of the year, humpbacks are most easily spotted. Baleen whales are “filter feeders” feasting on small micro-organisms like krill and plankton that they strain through the mesh-like baleen in their mouths. Having two blow holes their exhalation appears low and diffuse. Lucky humpback whale watchers may see the fluke or tail fin as the whale dives, or on rare occasions more gregarious behavior may be seen like fluke and pectoral fin slapping or breaching. Breaching is when the whale jumps entirely out of the water twisting and turning, producing an enormous splash!

The following are a few places where I have been spotting humpback whales;

Happy Fourth of July, everyone!

Being at sea so long, one loses track of time. Personally, I forget what day it is and mark time by which port we are in not the date! But today is Independence Day (for those of us from the USA) and though we are sailing in the waters of British Columbia, Canada, out on the open decks the barbeque is underway and the band is playing! So, I’d like to take this opportunity to wish everyone a safe and sane celebration.

As many of you know being at sea roughly 10 months of the year has made it hard to gather my time and resources to not only write the Alaska book but also get this website up and going. Not being familiar with with the ins and outs of cyber-space, I am a novice at this. I am pleased that it has afforded me a chance to reconnect with guests with whom I have previously traveled as well as new people curious about the possibility of going on a cruise. With the site in operation for about a month, I think it’s time to tweek things up a bit like changing the heading - “Terry’s Tips.”

This page was meant to be a journal of what is going on onboard; a chance to address topics and events on the ship and in the destination. Though I dislike the word, essentially, I guess it is a “blog”. In future postings I hope to have the page renamed - Terry’s Travels or Terry’s Blog. What do you think?
I value the opinion of those that take the time to find my site. I hope that in the future what I have to say will encourage you to travel more enjoying the wonders of our incredible world!

See you around the ship!
Happy Fourth!