Just imagine it’s your first time visiting the beautiful ports of Osaka, Shanghai, and Hong Kong. No doubt there are many things on your “must see” list; but what if you’ve been to these ports enough times to feel you have seen what you want to see and are now ready for an adventure? During my most recent visit I had just such an opportunity.
Days before we were to arrive in Osaka, Japan, Gudrun Werner, Cruise Consultant on the Seven Seas Mariner, received an invitation from one of our dearest former guests who lives in Kobe. She invited Gudrun and me, as well as a few other guests onboard for a day of things not offered on the typical tourist trail. She would take us to local shrines and temples followed by a visit to a real Japanese onsen or hot springs bathhouse followed by dinner. Not thinking about the “technicalities” posed by the bathhouse, we accepted with great enthusiasm and appreciation. Then Gudrun, being the practical German that she is, voiced what we were all thinking, “Do we need swimming suits? Towels? What should we bring?” To which our hostess replied – “Just bring your face cream!”
We were picked-up in a van rented just for the occasion. Driving about twenty minutes, we left Osaka for Kobe. I never realized it was so close. Though Kobe is a thriving city of 1.5 million people, its lush green surroundings make it seem more like a resort town. (I also found out Kobe is Seattle’s sister-city!) We stopped first at a very important Shinto shrine followed by a visit to a Buddhist temple. Located high on a hillside, visitors must climb a series of steep steps to the top where the view is spectacular. We were told that the huge brass bell standing before the main temple doors is rung by the priests to welcome in the new year. Visitors to the temple can also ring the same bell and make a wish that is guaranteed to come true – which, of course - we all did!
Next we stopped at the home of our hostess; located in a beautiful spot overlooking the city the house is made of cut white limestone. Inside, among her many collections were statues and figurines bought in cruise ports we recognized. Those who had never seen a high-tech Japanese toilet (see Terry Touts Toto Toilets www.cruiserfriendly.com/cruise_blog/general/terry-touts-toto-toilets/) were invited to peek in the guest washroom and take the burgundy model with a hand-held remote out for a test drive. After relaxing with a glass (or two) of champagne it was time for the onsen.
We drove up into the mountains, the lights of the city were starting to flicker far below. We were dropped off at a worn old wooden gate where a gravel path started toward a small lake. The only word to describe the feeling is, “serene.” Gnarly trees stretched out to form a canopy over the lake; candlelight reflected from small stone lanterns dotting the shore. As we continued up the path I could feel the ancient spirit of all those who walked the same path in quiet dignity toward the of ritual of the bath.
Leaving our shoes at the door we donned house slippers to walk on the fragile tatami floors. Shoji screens divided off the men’s from the women’s dressing rooms. Inside there were oak lockers for our belongings and peeled willow baskets for our clothes; all simple and natural. The only thing we were allowed to take into the bathing area was a thin cotton washcloth about the size of a small dishtowel – not enough to hide anything!
Through the sliding doors was the washing area; small partitions separated individual hand held showers. Seated on a very small pine stool I scrubbed down with a choice of soaps, exfoliants, and gels. Without appearing too noisy I noticed the locals were washing four or five times each; after which they would fold their washcloths and place them on their heads as they headed to the bath. When in Kobe – we did the same!
We were directed to the iron bath; the water was a rich reddish-brown and piping hot. It sapped every bit of self-consciousness from us – we were noodles! It was here that someone had the big idea of taking pictures! Nothing too incriminating that I couldn’t share.
Feeling very relaxed after our onsen experience, we dressed and made our way back down the hill to the restaurant. River-rock, polished smooth by years of wear covered the floors. The restaurant’s kimono clad hostess, graciously slid back the rice paper door on the room that had been prepared just for us. I don’t know if it was the room or the bath, but I was transformed by the feeling – austere, elegant and tranquil. (I read that traditional Japanese feel Western rooms are too busy making one feel nervous; they prefer visually quiet rooms to create quiet minds – I love it!) We left our shoes to enter; to accommodate Westerners the low table was standing in a pit allowing those who could not kneel to sit comfortably. Our meals started with sake and macha (prepared powdered green tea). We were instructed to unwrap the small, sweet buckwheat cake and place it on our tongues before drinking the macha; this symbolizes the bitter and sweet of life. And so the meal begins!
We were served fourteen courses of food; each consisting of small plates featuring one or two bites of an assortment of vegetarian delicacies ranging from salt encrusted gingko berries to a whole tempura fried fig. Our cameras were snapping away faster than our chopsticks. Each course was more beautiful and tasty than the next. At the end of the meal no one could agree which was their favorite; everything was so good.
Warmed by the sake and the afterglow of the iron water bath, we floated down the trail past the storybook lake with the lanterns. Crickets chirped in the bamboo. A crescent moon hung in the sky. Grateful beyond words for this day, were it not for the wonderful friendships made onboard ship, this unforgettable experience would never be mine. To our gracious hostess in Kobe – Domo Aregato.
