Juneau, AK – Eleven guests from the Seven Seas Mariner participating on a dog sledding shore excursion were stranded overnight on a glacier when their return helicopter was unable to take off from Juneau due to foul weather. The group spent the night of August 16, in tents provided for the dog sled camp employees. According to an ERA Helicopters employee, this was the first time such a thing had happened in twenty-two years of operation.

Prior to leaving Juneau guests on the tour were given thick jackets and snow boots so during the long wait on the glacier everyone remained warm and dry. As evening approached and the clouds grew thicker, the camp employees started to make arrangements for the eventuality of overnight visitors. Communication from the heliport in Juneau confirmed that no more helicopters would go out that night. Tents were prepared while a hot dinner of meatloaf with spinach and green beans was served. There was even chocolate cake for dessert. The camp has a generator that pumps water through an on-demand heater for hot water which is used for dishes and basic hygiene and there is an eco-friendly chemical toilet. After word came through that all the guests’ family and friends back onboard had been advised that they were safe and comfortable, everyone settled in for an evening of what they described as “simple pleasures” - cards, chess, board games and real conversation. At ten o’clock they retired to their heavy canvas tents which had elevated wooden plank floors, raised cots with ample sleeping bags and small gas stoves – reminiscent of the same tents used by Alaska’s earliest prospectors and pioneers. As the dogs were fed and put down for the night, one of the guests reported that they howled in a progressive chorus that according to one of the handlers was a sign of appreciation; the dogs’ way of saying thank you and good-night.

The next day the clouds were still low, no helicopters flying. A hot “stick to your ribs” breakfast of baked oatmeal and fruit was served with piping hot coffee. The eleven guests used the time to get to know the dogs and take another whack at mushing while others hiked with the camp employees to look at the spot where water is collected from the glacier ice. By late afternoon concerns were rising that the eleven would have to spend another night on the glacier. From the standpoint of the ship this was getting problematic; the Mariner had already left Juneau and was now getting ready to leave Skagway. Were the guests not able to join the ship they would have to fly to our next port in Canada. Without passports this could be tricky.

Upon our departure from Skagway, Capt. Fichet-Delavault made an announcement that we would be proceeding to Auk Bay north of Juneau. There we would either pick-up our guests were they able to get off the glacier in time or leave their passports and personal belongings so that they could comfortably make their way to Vancouver the next day. Two hours before we arrived we heard that the group had been taken off the glacier but they were being waylaid at Taku Lodge. Just one hour before dark, to the relief of all, we received news that they were now in Juneau and on their way to the ship. Once onboard we learned that the pilot who picked-up the group from the dog sled camp was young and did not feel comfortable going beyond Taku Lodge. Knowing the situation ERA sent up a forty year veteran pilot to complete the transfer. He expertly surveyed the cloud cover and found a way to take everyone safely back to Juneau. Upon their arrival the group unanimously agreed that this was one of the best experiences they had ever had in their lives; they didn’t want to leave and they would pay to do it again. One of the young women was so moved by her experience she applied to work for the camp next year! What could have been a terrible disaster ended up being a wonderful experience that no one will ever forget.

The following observation was submitted by a reader. Your comments are always welcome as this site does get read by the cruise lines!

My husband and I have enjoyed your talks on several Regent trips.  Many of the Regent passengers seem to enjoy extended cruises.  With your very insightful comments regarding fuel usage, perhaps you might comment on my idea of having consecutive segments in loops over shorter distances.  For example, in Europe, part 1 might go from Southampton down the coast of France, Portugal, and Spain in a leisurely manner with many ports, ending in a Spanish port.  Part 2 would continue with Spain, and continue say along France and western Italy to perhaps Rome.  Part 3 would continue to southern Italy and thence to the Adriatic and Athens.  Part 4 could do the Greek Isles, Turkey, etc.  If possible, a continuation could go along the northern coast of Africa.  This same sort of option would, of course, work in the Baltic/Scandinavia/Northern Europe/Iceland routes as well as South America or any other destination.

Folks would be able to choose a long or short journey depending on the number of segments, and the cruise line would be doing the more intensive treatment to which you referred.  Many folks, especially Regent’s clientele, do not care for a 10 or 12 day cruise far away with the air travel – the experience as well as the expense and carbon footprint.  Giving them options to lengthen their vacation might work.

On our southbound cruise, we have been forgoing a stop in Ketchikan, Alaska in favor of a visit to Campbell River, British Columbia. Located on Vancouver Island just south of Seymour Narrows and north of Vancouver, many guests question the reasoning of the stop as, in their words, “there is not much there.” So, why do we go?

The obvious answer is that it adds a new port which means guests wishing to combine back to back cruises have a least two ports which are not repeated. But there is more to it than that; by skipping Ketchikan southbound the ship is able to reach the very picturesque Inside Passage of British Columbia earlier allowing a full day to explore the scenic waterways between Vancouver Island and the mainland. During the summer this is the home to pods of resident orca that can be seen around place like Blackney Pass and Robson Bight. In addition, there is the daytime transit through historic Seymour Narrows where the undersea pinnacle of Ripple Rock was exploded; a highlight for buffs of navigation and engineering.

Though we dock in Campbell River in the late afternoon, the community rearranges its schedule to accommodate our arrival. Businesses stay open longer. A shuttle bus is provided to transfer guests into town including a stop at the museum. Admittedly, with disembarkation looming for an early morning the next day, many of our guests are not keen on doing much in Campbell River. Unlike most other towns visited on an Alaskan cruise, Campbell River is not touristy. However, with the pulp mill soon to be closing the community will probably be setting its sights on developing tourism infrastructure in the near future to attract more ships. In the meantime – it’s real.

Going past the strip malls and chain stores, the downtown of Campbell River is a charming area situated along the harbor with cute restaurants and storefronts. The town looks very much like any small town on Vancouver Island with one exception; the pier is on a First Nations Reserve. Dancers from the local “kwan” or village, welcome guests ashore. There are local Native vendors on the quayside. For those on foot, interpretative signs dot the sidewalks. In town the city museum is excellent. It contains a truly extraordinary collection on the Northwest Coast People of Vancouver Island including a historical time line that takes you through the introduction of the logging and fishing industries. Worth the $6 admission. You won’t find Diamonds International in Campbell River, but you will find friendly people who are proud of their community and happy to share it with visitors.

A guest forwarded this New York Times article to me regarding art purchased onboard.

http://www.nytimes.com/2008/07/16/arts/design/16crui.html?_r=1&ex=1216872000&en=1ebd6efdc22b4087&ei=5070&emc=eta1&oref=slogin

Last week a lady came up to me and expressed how “disgusted” she was with the commercialism of the towns in SE Alaska. She said, “I did not come to Alaska to go shopping for jewelry.” I asked if she had noticed any difference in Sitka as the community has fought for years to keep multi-nationals out in support of local business owners. She said, “I was so disappointed by Ketchikan, Juneau and Skagway I did not even get off the ship in Sitka.” It made me wonder how many other people feel the same way.

With that in mind I started to notice that many of the big name jewelry stores are actually leaving Alaska, or at least downsizing their operations. That could be a sign of hard economic times and the cost of luxury goods. Still there is a disproportionate number of jewelry stores in Ketchikan, Juneau and Skagway; that said there is also a growing number of locally owned and operated stores that are extolling the virtues of goods “Made in Alaska.” Signs in windows are popping up everywhere advertising “locally owned and operated.” More artisans are taking advantage of the Made in Alaska polar bear sticker that authenticates articles made by local Alaskans; as well as the Silver Hand sticker which is the symbol of Native Alaskan arts and handicrafts.

It is good to see the resurgence of local businesses and the preference of consumers asking for locally made goods. Local businesses have a vested interest in the community; they help keep the cost of doing business down which enables more local businesses to open and compete. It will be interesting to see what the retail landscape looks like next year.