FLYING OVER ANTARCTICA: IS IT WORTH IT?
Wednesday, February 13th, 2008More and more people are venturing off to visit The White Continent of Antarctica. Cruise ship departures from Ushuaia, Argentina are at an all time high giving rise to massive renovation and investment in the town’s infrastructure. But after the incident last November involving the expeditionary ship the Explorer; environmentalists are questioning how wise it is to have so many commercial ships in an area that is so fragile and potentially dangerous. In response, Lan Chile airlines offers an over flight. Departing from Punta Arenas, Chile, the 6 hour tour allows passengers onboard the AB300 to glimpse a little of Antarctica – weather permitting.
Every once in a while, this job has its benefits and most gratefully, I was allowed to accompany our group as an escort. Prior to departure a naturalist gave a very well delivered overview on Antarctica and its fauna. We were then taken to the airport where guests from the Seven Seas Mariner joined guests from the Holland-America ship the Prinsendam. As is the case with every flight, we did not know until arrival to the airport whether or not weather conditions would allow us to fly. However, luck was on our side and we took off. Once airborne everyone was given a menu of our in-flight service which started off with Pisco Sours. The mood onboard was jovial; everyone had a window seat and no one was seated over the wing except – the escorts – who did not complain.
Once crossing the Drake Passage we flew over Cape Horn and on toward the Weddell Sea. Down through the clouds huge tabular ice bergs started to appear as we neared the Weddell Peninsula. Weather was good so we the pilot took the plane down through the clouds. We passed over a Chilean research station and then banked across Danger Island. In the distance I could see the arc of the peninsula and couldn’t help thinking of Ernest Shackelton and his men who were marooned on Elephant Island just to the north. We passed low over Paulet Island, low enough to see huge rookeries of Adele penguins. On our return I asked the pilot just how low we were flying and he said at the lowest point we were about 1,000’ above the island – pretty impressive!
Just as we were getting ready to make a course change toward another island the notoriously unpredictable Antarctic weather moved in. Within minutes we were surrounded in clouds and wind. The pilot climbed to clear skies. Our total time viewing time was a little over an hour.
The flight was exhilarating; the pilot was excellent. The service onboard was ample and gracious. The plane was reconfigured for maximum viewing comfort. But was it worth it? I guess it depends on how much $1,700 represents to you. Though I am among those who are concerned about the impact of cruise ships in Antarctic waters, nothing beats being there – the immense, incomprehensible size of the ice; the color; and the stillness. Were I to choose I would have to say that I would rather save my money and apply the $1,700 toward an Antarctic cruise but if this were my only chance to see The Great White Continent – then yes definitely – if you can afford it – go!


