The cooperative feeding behavior known as bubble-netting is a once-in-a-lifetine thing to see. It doesn’t happen all the time; in fact, marine biologists say that the humpbacks participate in this kind of feeding only a few weeks in the year.

Exactly what is bubble-netting? As a baleen whale humpbacks are filter feeders, so to eat they scoop up thousands of gallons of water in their mouths and strain it through their baleen which acts as a sieve. Humpbacks only feed in the summer so they must eat a lot to bulk up for the rest of the year. When they come upon a school of small fish like herring, they will communicate with one another to surround the herring with a fine net of exhaled bubbles. The herring concentrate toward the center. The whales then, on cue, come up at once with their mouths open scooping up all the fish. They slip back down only to reset their bubble-net and do it again.

Last Saturday in Juneau I was lucky enough to go out on the Evening Whale Watch from Auke Bay where we saw a pod of 14 whales bubble-net feeding. Not only is this rare, seeing a pod of so many members working cooperatively is even more rare. So as they just started, if you are coming up in the next few weeks I would definitely book one of the whale watch programs in Juneau! Photo credit: Peggy Hutchings

Getting ready for the launch of the new website, I finally have been able to start posting some of the Terry’s Tips filmed in Alaska. To take a look go to: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M_Znsuddjs8. I would love to get the word out and start creating a whole library of cruise tips around the world. Let me know what you think.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M_Znsuddjs8

Looking for something different to do in Sitka? Why not try the Fortress of the Bears. Located in Silver Bay, the old storage containers used for the now defunct pulp mill have been converted into a refuge for brown and black bears.

Located six miles from downtown Sitka, the Fortress of the Bears is a non-profit organization that houses five bears. In 2007, two brown bears were introduced; last year (2010) three orphaned black bears were brought in. The bears can be seen in their concrete enclosures from an elevated platform. Three brown bears that spent time at the compound have now been relocated to the Bronx Zoo. Just recently National Geographic filmed at the Fortress of the Bears, documenting the work and research taking place.

Free transfers are available from the small boat harbor tender pier. Look for the signs. Admission is $10 and is tax deductible.

For the past three weeks I looked up at the Icy Strait Point ZipRider platform suspended 1,300 feet above the valley floor and wondered who in their right mind would want to slide down the one mile long cable from an elevation higher than the top of the Empire State Building at speeds of over 60 miles per hour? Well, I would and today, I did.

The day was truly glorious; clear, blue skies with miles of visibility in all directions. Knowing that I would not be back in Hoonah until much later in the season when chances for good weather would be slim, I decided to seize the day! Now you have to know I am very frightened of heights, planes are okay but anything tall attached to the ground makes me very nervous. So the fact that this zip-line is suspended from a cliff on top of a real Alaskan mountain did give me cause to pause. But the day was so pretty, I had to do it.

Without knowing what I had done I bought my ticket, filled out the release form, weighed in and was on the old school bus chugging up the mountain. It took 45 minutes to get to the top and from where we were let out it was another ten minute walk down a steep grade to the platform. FYI: For the extremely nervous there are three portable toilets at the top. The ZipRider has been in operation for four years. It is owned and operated by the Huna Totem Corporation. Profits from the ZipRider as well as the entire Icy Strait Point Experience go to the native corporation.

There were seven harnesses in front of seven gates. We were told to keep our feet firmly braced against the door with legs straight. While the attendant was strapping us in, we were given the rules and regulations on conduct as well as hints on how to get the most of our whopping 90 second ride. Yes, it only takes 90 seconds to whiz down the 1,300 foot mountain.

No sooner had my straps been checked the man in charge decided to forego the countdown and yelled, “all clear?” To which another man replied, “clear!” and bang! The doors opened and we were airborne. Straight off the platform the cable drops and I was looking straight down the cliff. For a split second I thought, “What have I done?” But as quickly as that thought crossed my mind the cable seemed to slacken and slow allowing me to enjoy the spectacular view of Icy Strait and the Chilkat Mountains. I saw eagles in trees and deer tip-toeing across a shallow pond. This was the quintessential eagle-eye view; but I was soaring higher than the eagles below me!

By the time I started to relax and loosen my death-grip on the straps, it was over. I watched as my fellow riders were snagged by a hook that gracefully caught them above a big sand box. I was next and in seconds I was back on the ground. It was over before I had a chance to appreciate it. It was not as frightening as I thought it would be and given the beauty of the day, I would recommend anyone tempted to try to go for it — especially on a sunny day. It was great fun. I survived the longest, highest zipline in the world! Yahoo!

I am happy to report the books are now available on-board all Princess Cruises ships in Alaska, Regent Seven Seas Navigator, Oceania Regatta, Silver Shadow, and Crystal Symphony. Thank you very much for your interest and support.  In addition to the book and fold-out map on the Navigator, Regatta, Shadow and Symphony please look for Mary Sterner Lawson’s wonderful Alaska-themed gift cards — also in the boutique!

June is just around the corner – hard to believe that the year is half way through. Yikes! I am excited to see many of our guests again on the Navigator in a few weeks. Regardless of which ship you will be on this summer, if Alaska is part of your plans please do not hesitate to contact me if I can help you in any way.  Questions to ask? Opinions? Updates? Let me know and see you soon!

I have to admit that Hoonah has never been one of those places I’ve yearned to re-visit. My memory was of a tiny town hard hit by the closing of the cannery and the over-cutting of trees on tribal lands. The prospects for the community of less than 500 people, primarily Native Tlingit, were about as bleak and bare as the hillsides that surrounded town. Then someone had a big idea – a great idea. Turn Hoonah into an Alaskan “experience.”  Juneau has a glacier, Skagway has the Gold Rush, Sitka has the Russian heritage, Hoonah has a … cannery?

By nature a salmon cannery is not the sexiest thing in the world, especially not a real cannery; but a cleaned-up, dried-out, sanitized cannery might be interesting if done right. Well, the people of the Huna Totem Company have successfully re-created Hoonah as a fun cruise destination – Icy Strait Point. The result is a series of interpretative areas in the actual cannery where the history and process of canning is explained while also showcasing Alaskan made souvenirs and local Native-made crafts including very beautiful beading, leatherwork, and basketry.  In addition to the cannery visitors can enjoy a theater featuring Native performances, wildlife tours and excursions, 21 eating opportunities, a beach-walk along the waterfront including benches in front of an open crackling log fire, and for the adventurous the world’s longest zip-line.

The restoration of the cannery and the creation of the fishing/canning experience is in keeping with the history of the area however, to me, the zip-line is a big much. It’s huge – it starts way up a mountainside that is higher in elevation than the Empire State Building and ends on the beach. We were in port with the M/S Amsterdam; together I think the total number of passengers between the two ships was about 3,000 with an average age of about 78 — not your average zip-line crowd.  During the four hours I was walking around I saw people on the zip-line three times.  Though it looked mildly entertaining to me, I am not sure if even I would do it — which made me wonder how profitable this extensive investment is?

After investigating Icy Strait Point I took a nice half mile walk into town to hunt down a piece of pie. I found a café with a pastry case in which two slices of apple pie sat waiting. I asked the price and was told it was $5.99 a slice. The lady behind the counter assured me it was very good nevertheless I declined. She went on to explain the rising cost of transport has driven up all prices in town. The combination of being isolated on an island in a very remote part of Southeast Alaska made living in Hoonah more expensive than someplace like Seattle. I told her that I was working and not on vacation – loved pie, but didn’t really need it – to which she asked would I take it for $4.99? Now feeling guilty I said sure and she threw in a scoop of ice cream. The pie was good as promised. When I got up to leave the lady behind the counter asked, “You know where the pie’s from?” I put two extra dollars on the table and said, “Costco.” She looked at me in disbelief and then said, “How did you know?” What can I say? Some people know wine, I know my pie.

As I waited for the tender I watched as a huge humpback whale surfaced in the bay not too far from the pier. It was one of the biggest whales I have ever seen.

Though the “experience” is open to the public it is obvious that the operation is coordinated for and around cruise ships. In addition to downside of its lack of activity having it there made the whole project feel like an amusement park.

I have to admit that I have not been in Astoria since my elementary school class in Tacoma, Washington had a field trip that followed the path of Lewis and Clark along the Columbia River. I don’t know what I was expecting but what I found was delightful.

Astoria is located in the far northwestern corner of Oregon, just east of the famous Columbia River bar, an area prone to wind and wave.  Ocean waves crash against the build-up of river sediment that forms the under-sea wall or “bar.” Large ships must use dredged channels lest they go aground on the bar. For this reason they require skilled pilots who often board by helicopter when seas are rough. It can be a harrowing experience especially during winter. The local fishermen of Astoria know the peculiarities of the Columbia bar as they guide their boats over it every day.  If your cruise itinerary includes a call on Astoria, I recommend that you make a point of watching either the approach in or out of port – over the bar. The scenery is beautiful and the maneuvering is impressive.

The area is rich in history dating back to 1792 and the arrival of Captain Robert Gray, followed by Lewis and Clark in 1805. As a city, Astoria dates back to 1811. It was the first permanent settlement west of the Rockies. This May was the bi-centennial celebration. The town was named after John Jacob Astor who funded the fur trading expedition that set-up shop at the mouth of the Columbia River. As one of the oldest communities in the Pacific Northwest, it contains surprisingly beautiful examples of Victorian architecture. There are grand houses; some open to the public like the Flavel House, others which have been turned into fantastic bed & breakfasts like the Grandview. (Fun fact: One fourth of the city’s houses are eligible for status of National Historic Landmark!) As the county seat the government buildings constructed in the early 1900’s are magnificent. The lobby of the massive granite post office contains an impressive assortment of floor to ceiling marble quarried from throughout the state. In addition to the elegant Hotel Elliott and the former Hotel Astoria the downtown features charming store-fronts and the newly restored Liberty Theater. Looking at the black and white photos taken at the turn of the century not much has changed — a testament to the investment that has been made in restoring this historic town. Shoppers interested in antiques will be thrilled with the number of stores specializing in the heyday of Victorian Astoria – from furniture to architectural fittings – all at very reasonable prices! (My best friend jokes that I always seem to find lamps and chairs when I am traveling, true to form, I found plenty that I felt I couldn’t live without and wished I had a U-Haul!)

From the ship there is a 2 mile river-walk that winds along the water-front by-passing the traffic of the main street. The track of the old restored street car runs parallels to the walk; the trolley runs every half hour with stops along the way.  For those not on tour there is plenty of printed material to help you plan and explore; local hosts are also posted throughout town to answer questions and direct visitors.  There are many interesting museums and exhibits all within easy walking distance of downtown. Perched up on the hill is the Astoria Column, a 125 foot monument that depicts the exploration and settling of the area. From the top of the hill visitors have a great view of the Columbia River and Pacific Ocean; for a even better view you can climb the 164 steps to the top.

Not too far away are historic Fort Clatsop and Fort Stevens; both built as trading posts during the 1800’s.  Just a short drive from Astoria are the beautiful coastal towns of Seaside and Cannon Beach.

As the only deep-water port in Southeast Alaska to not be fully developed by the cruise industry, Wrangell is a throw-back to vintage Alaska. Remember the television show Northern Exposure? Well, though that show was actually filmed in Roslyn, Washington, it captured the feeling of a small Alaskan town like Wrangell. Once a thriving mill-town, the economy came to a screeching halt when the mill closed. Though other communities in Southeast Alaska benefited from cruise ships, Wrangell was reluctant. Instead the town tried to create more self-managed tourism opportunities like Muskeg Meadows, a 9-hole golf course with the only raven handicap in the state (in the even a raven steals your ball…). Something had to be done.

In the last few years Wrangell has started to embrace the idea of more tourism including from cruise ships. Increasingly more ships are choosing to call on Wrangell. The town is still one of the few authentic communities in this part of the state — you won’t find Diamonds International or Starbuck’s. What you will find are local residents happy to share the opportunities their community affords. From the pier follow main street and it will take you to Chief Shakes House with its famous collection of original totem poles; nearby is the Wrangell Museum, one of the newest and best museums in the state. As the gateway to the Stikine River, those wanting more action can hop aboard a jet-boat to Shakes Glacier where it’s almost guaranteed to see wildlife. The area is growing more popular for its bear watching!

With its newly painted buildings and clean, broad main street downtown Wrangell looks greatly improved since my last visit seven years ago. This may not be apparent to a first-timer but to me things looked new and fresh. Exciting news, I’ve been told things are going to get even better. Starting this summer new sidewalks are being constructed with sloping slides and ramps for universal accessibility. Areas will be landscaped with shrubs and flowers. Power lines will be buried. Several storefronts currently empty will have new businesses that will appeal to visitors as well as year round residents. Due to the nature of such projects in Alaska, work must be done during the summer which unfortunately will affect visitors this summer. Keeping in the Alaskan spirit, the town kindly asks everyone to “Bear with us” and “Bear the mess.”

Finally! The third edition of the Cruiser Friendly Guide to Alaska’s Inside Passage is printed and advance copies are now available for purchase.  After twenty years working on the most luxurious cruise ships in Alaska, I know what people just like you want to know about Alaska - and I’ve put it all in this book! The Cruiser Friendly Guide to Alaska’s Inside Passage is written specifically to enhance your on-board cruise experience; it’s not just about the ports but what you are seeing from the ship along the way. To me that is the best thing part of an Alaska cruise — the beautiful scenery, historic landmarks and remarkable wildlife visible from your ship! The third edition is indeed new and improved. It is 260 full-color, pages featuring beautiful photographs contributed by such Regent notables as Captain Philippe Fichet-Delavault and Executive Chef Mike Roemhild as well as original drawings by Mary Sterner Lawson. What I am most proud of is the new maps — not only are there detailed maps for you to use while in scenic areas like Misty Fjords, Tracy Arm, Glacier Bay, Yakutat Bay or College Fjord but there is now a new, easy-to-use, fold out map of the entire region from Puget Sound to Cook Inlet! The book retails for $19.95 and is currently available through my website: cruiserfriendly.com. Starting in April the new edition will be on Amazon.com and ShopHollandAmerica.com. This summer the book will be sold in the gift shops of Regent, Oceania, Silver Seas, Crystal and Princess Cruises. Special prices available for travel agents and groups.

Thank you all for purchasing the Cruiser Friendly Onboard Guide to Alaska’s Inside Passage this Alaska season. I have exciting news regarding the new edition; starting May 2011 not only will the book be printed in beautiful, vibrant full-color, there will be a complimentary fold-out map!

The most frequently asked question on-board over the years has been, “Do you have a map?” Now we do! The 8″ x 21″ map details the north Pacific coast from Seattle to Seward. You can follow along and create the course of your cruise using the easy to identify navigational markers.