For many the highlight of their cruise through Alaska’s Inside Passage is a visit to the pristine wilderness area of Tracy Arm. This glacially carved fjord winds its way past deep U-shaped valleys and dramatic granite cliffs to end dramatically at Sawyer Glacier. Over the past nineteen years that I have been on the bridge doing commentary through Tracy Arm, we rarely see another human soul. It is glorious and we do try to keep the chatter down so that the beauty can be appreciated. But now, due to a new program issued as a result of “a cooperative effort between vessel operators and the Tongass National Forest,” the new practices are meant to, “minimize the impact of tourism and vessel operations in the Tracy Arm-Fords Terror Wilderness in a manner that addresses both concerns for our natural resources and operators’ concerns for safety and passenger service.”
Under these practices to “Preserve Quiet” ships are prohibited from making any announcements before 8am. Announcements can only to be made in three designated areas not to exceed 5 minutes total. Longer explanations of the area will be allowed in Holkam Bay, before entering into the fjord. It is not clear whether or not this restrictions apply to the small locally operated tour boats that go to Sawyer Glacier – are they also included in these practices? Sound travels over water; regardless of whether you are 4,000 tons or 140,000 tons it will disturb anything on the shore.
Further “Environmental Precautions” to maintain clean air by minimizing visible emissions is a blessing. There have been more than one occasion that I have noticed the blue haze of a large ship’s emissions hours after it sailed through the fjord. Under “Protecting Wildlife,” every operator does his or her best to “conduct their business in a manner which, whenever possible avoids changing the natural behavior of wildlife,” however I think it will be hard to fully comply with some of the request regarding harbor seals. Under the Marine Mammal Protection Act, harbor seals are protected and every cruise ship knows that. Under this new set of procedures “operators agree to remain a minimum of 100 yards from seals on icebergs whenever possible” and “agree to reduce speed when approaching hauled out seals, and to gradually increase speed when leaving their site in order to reduce wake.” That is common sense; however many wonder what penalties will be faced when the inevitable happens – seals haul out onto to the ice in front of or next to the ship without warning. Will we be in violation? And who will be monitoring compliance?
All that said, I can understand wanting to set rules for conduct – I have seen things in Tracy Arm that warrant tighter measures and I applaud the environmental community for getting this out there. However, what doesn’t sit well with me is the final exhibit in this document that says; “ 1.) … Holkam Bay is a good place to introduce Tracy Arm. Since the waterway is wide, announcements would not impact campers, kayakers, fisherman on shore, beach walkers, hunters and other users of the wilderness area.” As a passenger on a cruise ship, are you not also a user of the wilderness area? Though I am all for peace and quiet, I also think that as the majority of cruise ship guests in Alaska are US tax paying citizen, they too have rights to use and enjoy their wilderness as well. I am not saying that we as an industry should not uphold these practices – I believe we should. I take offense to what seems to be preference given to the rights of a handful of kayakers and hunters over thousands of guests on a cruise ship.
Starting tomorrow morning, I will begin to abide by these new Practices and I hope that they will start to set a new more reverential tone for our visit to Tracy Arm. And I hope that in the future when decisions such as these that regulatory bodies will seek more input from more input from the cruise industry on how to make calls on places like Tracy Arm memorable for everyone lucky enough to visit.