This South America season the Seabourn Sojourn is cruising between Valparaiso, Chile and Buenos Aires, Argentina. Through the Chilean fjords and around Cape Horn, this is one of the most popular segments of a South American cruise; and for that reason they are going to be repeating it for the entire two and a half month season.

When the Sojourn came through Montevideo, guests and crew came-up to see my new apartment. They had just come from Port Stanley in The Falklands, where they had a glorious day and saw king penguins, etc. The next day the cruise was to end in Buenos Aires. Some of you may know that Argentina has been raising concerns again about the sovereignty of The Falklands and has been threatening to not allow cruise ships into Argentina that have been to The Falklands. My friends said they did not know what impact if any their visit would have.

After the next cruise began in Buenos Aires, the Soujourn stopped in Montevideo where again I had lunch with the same friends. It seems the Argentines were not happy that the ship had gone to the The Falklands and told them they would be unwelcome in the country were they to do it again. Well, as it is part of their published itinerary - they did. As luck would have it weather was bad and they could not get in to port; nevertheless they had committed themselves in the attempt.

The next stop was to be Ushuaia, Argentina. They were informed they were not welcome and were being labeled a “pirate ship.” The ship went on to Chile where extra time was added in Puerto Montt. No final decision has been made regarding how to handle the rest of the season.

Seabourn is not the only cruise line affected by Argentina’s actions; Holland-America, Princess, Oceania, and Regent have similar itineraries. They have only two choices; eliminate the call in The Falklands or avoid all Argentine ports. Avoiding all Argentine ports includes Buenos Aires which is not only a major draw for guests but is also the turn-around port where cruises begin and end. Without Buenos Aires additional arrangements must be made to fly passengers in and out of nearby Montevideo - that could be costly. Eliminating The Falklands is much easier but takes away the much relied upon revenue from the seasonal cruise ship visits.

For a good look at the down line affect on the community please click on the link.

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/cruises/cruise-news/9741833/Cruise-ship-row-strangling-Falkland-Islands.html

It all started innocently enough; I was to be the Study Leader for a group of 37 through the Panama Canal from New York to Los Angeles. The group of Road Scholars consisted of a wonderful multi-generational mix of travelers interested in learning. Love it! Everything was according to plan until little white swirls started to appear on the images taken by weather satellites high over the coast of Florida. As those swirls grew progressively larger the media had already dubbed it, “Frankenstorm!”

Coming up from Montevideo to New York was a twenty-seven hour flight. Like thousands of others I got delayed and rerouted avoiding the NYC area entirely.I was lucky I eventually flew to Charleston where the ship - Crystal Symphony - was now waiting. My fellow Road Scholars were not so lucky; many had already flown into New York and were stuck. The ship could not enter New York Harbor so it was directed to go to Charleston from Boston.The group in New York had to charter a bus and drive to Charleston. When they finally arrived I was waiting to greet them at the entrance of the Mills House; after flying 27 hours I was hoping for an early night - but as they trudged past me I could see that is exactly what they wanted as well! Miraculously everyone arrived in relatively good humor thanks in a large part to the buoyant spirit of Group Leader Valerie Hershfield.

The next day we boarded the Crystal Symphony along with all the other passengers who had been rerouted. I had the pleasure of touring the Symphony in Alaska last year during a book signing; I was impressed then and was again once back onboard. Cruising as a guest was an unexpected delight. I now can understand why people like this whole thing - it was pretty nice!

I gave one or two talks every sea day in addition to the host of formal lectures by other enrichment speakers onboard. Having never worked with Road Scholar before I was impressed by the interest level of the group which was multi-generational. Road Scholar - aka Elderhostel - is reaching beyond its prveious demographic to attract younger travelers with an ardent interest in travel as an educational experience. I think many were disappointed in the cruise aspect of the trip - not that the ship wasn’t exceptional - but the many independent options available onboard seemed to dilute some of the cohesiveness created on other trips. Nevertheless we had a great transit through the Canal which was the focus of the program.

Dining together as a group I had a chance to learn more about everyone and Road Scholar. Many within the group have taken upwards of 70 trips. Due to the educational aspect of the organization Road Scholar programs include some very interesting, non-traditional destinations like Cuba! I was fascinated to hear about week long trips that focused on a stately home or an art exhibit. Programs include land-based trips as well as cruises on large and small ships. For more information contact: www.roadscholar.org

Antarctica truly is the last frontier. The lure of the White Continent has called to explorers and adventurers; whalers and furriers; scientists and conservationists.

During the past thirty years tourists have also ventured beyond the notorious Drake Passage to explore Antarctica with its smoldering volcanic beaches, islands filled with squawking penguins and magnificent blue tabular icebergs. Most of those tourists arrived by ship. Due to the increase in ships of various size and shape, and the environmental threat they pose, in 2011 the Antarctica Treaty Organization started to regulate tourism by prohibiting in Antarctic waters any ship that burns “heavy fuel.” (See my blogs of 2010-07-30 No more big ships in Antarctica after August 2011 and 2010-02-20 Antarctica tightens restrictions on cruise ships.)

The new regulation excluded all but small, expeditionary-type vessels and larger ships that can burn lighter, cleaner fuel. In response to the demand for Antarctic itineraries Crystal Symphony will be returning to Antarctica in 2013/2014, as will Azamara Quest, Holland America’s Prinsendam, Princess’s Star Princess, and last but not least, the Seabourn Quest will make its inaugural cruise. Though most of the larger ships will do only “scenic sailing” (no landings allowed for ship carrying over 400 passengers) Crystal does advertise that it includes “a boots on the ground experience” which looks to be a flight and landing.

While onboard the Crystal Symphony I had the opportunity to ask Captain Egil Giske how the Symphony will comply with the new environmental regulations. He explained that the new Antarctic requirements are exactly the same as those imposed upon ships in the State of California. I had a chance to look into those requirements and it looks like the switch to a lighter, cleaner, more eco-friendly fuel requires no alteration to the engine department however it is more expensive. According to the number of ships back in the market looks like the cost of the expense can be off-set by the demand for the destination.

I have not heard of any immediate plans for Regent’s return to Antarctica but all I can is, I’m ready!

On September 18th, I was invited by Karl Storch, of Sun Tours, Albuquerque to do an introduction to Alaska for one hundred of his clients interested in the destination. The event held a the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center was co-hosted by Oceania Cruises.

Sun Tours offers a selection of cruise departures in 2013, including one on Regatta to Alaska, July 12 - 22.

I was told about Karl and Sun Tours by Regent guests who were on with me last year in South America. As a local Albuquerque company I was anxious to meet Karl and Linda (who is charge of all the cruises.) After learning more about their programs I was so impressed I was ready to sign-up especially for a Mystery Tour. That’s right - a Mystery Tour! You sign-up not knowing where you are going nor what you will do; you only know the travel dates and price — the rest is left up to faith and Karl! According to the people in attendance at the presentation, these are Sun Tours’ most popular offerings!

Next time you are up for an adventure, check ‘em out: http://www.suntoursus.com

Many of you already know that effective January 31st, 2013, Mark Conroy will step down as President of Regent Seven Seas Cruises. Here is the official letter:

Dear Travel Partners,

The last few years have been nothing short of spectacular for Regent Seven Seas Cruises (RSSC). Despite a difficult economic environment, we have sailed virtually full for the past two years while achieving the highest yields in the industry. These results are a testament to the strength of our mutual partnerships and the powerful value proposition of providing the Most Inclusive Luxury Cruise Experience in the world.

RSSC has come a long way since we launched the Radisson Diamond in 1992. Since then, we have built the best management and sales and marketing teams in the industry. We have also retained the best Officers and Crew at sea who deliver the luxury cruise experience that your clients have come to expect from us 24 hours a day, seven days a week and 365 days a year.

Recently, Frank, Kunal and I sat down to discuss how we could leverage the talent within the organization for the benefit of our two brands; RSSC and Oceania Cruises. At that time, I also expressed my desire to be instrumental in shaping larger strategic initiatives while cutting back on the day-to-day responsibilities of running an international cruise line and the extensive travel that comes with the job.

Therefore at the end of January next year, I will step down as President of RSSC and become an Executive Advisor to both Frank and Kunal on a series of corporate-wide business strategies across both brands. Please click here to read today’s announcement. While RSSC will always be a part of who I am, this is the right time for me personally to take a broader role in this exciting industry.

Our partnership with you and the commitment to our guests have always come first. I have worked side by side with Kunal and, in fact, many of you already know him. As Kunal assumes the President role at RSSC, you should have full confidence as I do that our commitment to you and your clients is our top priority.

Furthermore, I’m pleased to announce that Randall Soy, a 22-year veteran at RSSC and our longest-tenured employee, will be promoted to Executive Vice President of Sales and Marketing at the end of January. Frank, Kunal and I are confident that Randall’s successful track record at RSSC over the last two decades combined with his leadership skills makes him the ideal candidate to support your sales and marketing efforts as we continue to grow our respective businesses together.

Although I will be stepping back from the day-to-day business, please be assured that the legacy of excellence that has been the hallmark of RSSC will continue. I hope that we can count on your support and trust that you will continue to bestow upon us the privilege of delivering to your clients the Most Inclusive Luxury Cruise Experience in the world.

Kind regards,

Mark S. Conroy
President
Regent Seven Seas Cruises

Our day in Hoonah started out in pea-soup fog. The fog horn sounded regularly as we dropped anchor in Port Frederick. The tenders puttered off into the fog heading in faith toward Icy Strait Point. Directly overhead there was a hint of blue indicating the prospect of a better day. After hours of laboring under the drone of the fog horn, the fog, just as Carl Sandberg’s described it on little cat’s feet, rolled back revealing a truly glorious, crisp, early-fall day. It was breathtaking. From the ship to the north you could see across Icy Strait toward the Chilkat Mountains; to the west every peak on the Fairweather Range was identifiable. It seemed as though you could not ask for more.

As planned I was to go to the bridge to watch for whales. Just as we pulled the anchor and headed out of the bay we were escorted by four humpback whales. They rose and dove gracefully as if in a choreographed farewell. Off in the distance was the Diamond Princess, it was heading east. The pilot on-board radioed to our pilot alerting him that they had seen lots of whales. This is a common courtesy to let the guests on other ships enjoy what they had seen, so after hearing this, I passed on the word to our guests. In the back of my mind I wondered if the little farewell delegation we had just seen was what the pilot was referencing.

Out on Icy Strait we continued to the west. Far, far off in the distance I saw several cottonball-esque clouds on the horizon; these “clouds” were too big and too far away to the the blow of whales. I grabbed binoculars. I could not believe my eyes. The horizon was filled with blow after blow of whales and the cottonbal-esque clouds were the splashes of whales breaching everywhere - again and again. Their bodies silhouetted again the setting sun looked like jumping beans popping up out of the water. It was insane! I was so excited I asked Cruise Director Ray Solaire to make a general announcement throughout the entire ship - this could not be missed!

As we continued to approach the area known as Point Adolphus it was evident there were over one hundred whales. They were on all sides of the ship. Thanks to ray’s announcement the decks and balconies were filled with guests and crew armed and ready with cameras and binoculars. Amazingly the advancing ship did not bother the whales, they carried-on as though we were not there. Clusters of up to twenty-five whales rose to the surface in intervals, their blow looking like smokestacks of an industrial city. I stopped trying to make comment as there were too many whales to keep up with. Whales were breaching so close to the ship the folds in their throats were clearly visible as were the knobs on their pectoral fins.

We continued to be surrounded by the whales for well over two hours. I finally called it quits when there were “only” six whales around the ship. I was exhausted. In 23 years I have never seen anything like it. When someone asks,”being out here on the ship for so long, does it ever get old?” My answer is always, “no”, exactly because of days like today.

The following article by Harry Shattuck appeared in the Houston Chronicle.

“Carnival has become the latest cruise line to try out an all-you-can-drink package, with a trial run of its “My Awesome Bar Program,” on its Victory ship.

The world’s largest cruise company is offering passengers the option of purchasing unlimited access to wine, beer, spirits, as well as sodas and non-alcoholic frozen cocktails for $42.95 per person per day, plus an automatic 15 percent gratuity of $6.44, according to USATODAY.com. The package can be used to buy all wines and cocktails priced at $10 and lower. Full bottles of wine and champagne, as well as any glasses of wine over $10, are available for a 25 percent discount, the website reported.

To prevent two people in the same cabin from trying to share a package, the cruise line is requiring that anyone 21 years or older in the same berth to each purchase the option

The decision follows other cruise lines, including Royal Caribbean, Celebrity and Oceania, that offer similar types of unlimited beverage packages, according to cruisecritic.com.

Carnival spokesman Vance Gulliksen told cruisecritic.com that the trial has been ongoing since Victory’s Aug. 5 departure from Miami, Fla. He cited convenience and value as the reasons behind the move.

Whether the cruise line extends the package to its other 23 ships remains to be seen. Some online commenters questioned the move, saying it may encourage more drunkenness on cruises.

The cruise line sails the Carnival Triumph from its departure port in Galveston.”

It’s always like this in Alaska - isn’t it?

Well, like any classy lady, you never want it to be obvious that you have had some “work done.” Well, so it is with the Navigator.

The Seven Seas Navigator went into dry-dock in North Vancouver on June 12th and returned into service on June 30th. I have been on this ship since she first came out in 1999, and I have to say, when I returned I could not see what had been done. Before leaving I was told that everything was going to be new from carpeting to wall coverings, etc. So I was excited to see the make-over. Maybe I watch too much HGTV when I am home, because I was ready for this big dramatic “reveal”. Did not happen.

That is not to say that work was not done - it was. Most of the dry-dock experience was below decks. One of the biggest jobs was the removal of the old ballast which was replaced with a solid material. If you come onboard and see these silvery, black blobs on people’s desks that look like a something from a sci-fi film, these are the original pieces of ballast. Franck Galzy, General Manager, gifted all the department heads with their own little piece of the ship!

Like most of you, I was more concerned with the things above decks - new restaurants, cosmetic changes, etc. The most noticeable change is the expansion of Prime 7 and the conversion of La Verandah’s evening offering to what is being called, Sette Mari. Prime 7 looks the same but can now accommodate double the capacity. Sette Mari is an Italian themed restaurant where soup, specialty pastas, main course items and dessert are ordered from the menu. Upon being seated you are served a glass of sparkling Prosecco, a plate of antipasti and various appetizers. It has been so popular I have only been able to sneak in once in the last month.

As for the cosmetic changes, the big surprise is there are none! As promised the carpets were replaced and the wall coverings were refinished, etc. but all with exactly the same thing! As I said, you’d never know she had any work done! I have not seen for myself but I have been told the Master Suites were all redecorated and look great. So, that’s the story on dry-dock!

The cooperative feeding behavior known as bubble-netting is a once-in-a-lifetine thing to see. It doesn’t happen all the time; in fact, marine biologists say that the humpbacks participate in this kind of feeding only a few weeks in the year.

Exactly what is bubble-netting? As a baleen whale humpbacks are filter feeders, so to eat they scoop up thousands of gallons of water in their mouths and strain it through their baleen which acts as a sieve. Humpbacks only feed in the summer so they must eat a lot to bulk up for the rest of the year. When they come upon a school of small fish like herring, they will communicate with one another to surround the herring with a fine net of exhaled bubbles. The herring concentrate toward the center. The whales then, on cue, come up at once with their mouths open scooping up all the fish. They slip back down only to reset their bubble-net and do it again.

Last Saturday in Juneau I was lucky enough to go out on the Evening Whale Watch from Auke Bay where we saw a pod of 14 whales bubble-net feeding. Not only is this rare, seeing a pod of so many members working cooperatively is even more rare. So as they just started, if you are coming up in the next few weeks I would definitely book one of the whale watch programs in Juneau! Photo credit: Peggy Hutchings