Mama mia! When the SeaDream I, sailed into Gustavia Harbor, in St. Barts - she turned heads! This sleek, sexy ship has 54 outside staterooms that measure 195 square feet. The master suite has 450 square feet with private master bedroom and bath, living and dining room and guest bath. There is a spa, fitness center, casino, 24 hour room service and boutique onboard plus beautiful bars and dining revenues. Their slogan is, “its yachting, not cruising,” and they promise once you try a SeaDream yacht you will never cruise again.

The SeaDream I is elegant and the people I met onshore were very happy with what they were experiencing. Being so impressed with the grand entrance she made, I went online to look at their website. It looks like the perfect environment for the independent, motivated traveler who wants comfort and luxury without the fuss. With longer stays in port and a more low-keyed environment onboard, it feels like one’s own yacht. Certainly it won’t be for everyone – there’s no “big” entertainment, activities or events – however, there is staff, equipment and resources for enjoying days at sea and exploring in port. As I said, I think SeaDream Yachts are ideal for the independent and self motivated traveler who wants comfort and luxury without the fuss. Sounds great to me!

The biggest party in the world is Rio de Janeiro’s celebration of Carnaval. People from all over flock to the city to watch the magnificent parades of the competing samba schools. Getting a berth for a cruise ship is almost as difficult as getting a hotel room. Though the Seven Seas Mariner arrived late for the actual pre-Lenten celebration we were just in time for the Winner’s Parade. On Ash Wednesday, the winners of the coveted competition were announced; for the fifth time in six years Bejia Flor won first place. The next day, the top five schools performed to a sold out crowd in the world famous Sambadromo. Tickets for seats were going from $100 to stand in the bleachers to $1000 for a VIP box.

Lucky me – I was invited to see the parade from ring side seats – Sector 11, Frisa 5. For those thinking about attending next year, I highly recommend this location which was open and spacious with a great view. I was close enough to catch various bits of costume that were tossed into the crowds. (The lucky people in the front row were actually given headdresses and feathered capes!) The entire Sambadromo which holds 60,000 people was packed. There were plenty of well-identifiable personnel to help direct and lots of police to discourage petty theft. Though there were throngs of people it felt very relaxed and safe.

Well, as relaxed as you can be with the driving drums of the batteria causing even the most non- rhythmic gringo feet to start tapping. Everyone was singing. Everyone was dancing. The costumes of the samba schools were fantastic and the floats were mind-boggling; women danced on 40’ tall white horses, a pyramid of people created a crystal chandelier, a doll house was filled with transvestites – it kept getting bigger and better with each school. I regret that I had to leave at 1am; but some of my fellow guests watched the whole thing which ended at sunrise. Bravo!

If you have ever dreamed of going to Rio for Carnaval, make sure that you book your seats in advance. All the samba schools compete throughout the weekend through to Fat Tuesday; finalist perform one last show in the Winner’s Parade on Thursday. But don’t forget that located not too far from the cruise ship terminal in Port Maura is the new Cidade de Samba which is now open to the public where you can see floats being made and learn more about the history of samba and Rio’s winning samba schools.

More and more people are venturing off to visit The White Continent of Antarctica. Cruise ship departures from Ushuaia, Argentina are at an all time high giving rise to massive renovation and investment in the town’s infrastructure. But after the incident last November involving the expeditionary ship the Explorer; environmentalists are questioning how wise it is to have so many commercial ships in an area that is so fragile and potentially dangerous. In response, Lan Chile airlines offers an over flight. Departing from Punta Arenas, Chile, the 6 hour tour allows passengers onboard the AB300 to glimpse a little of Antarctica – weather permitting.

Every once in a while, this job has its benefits and most gratefully, I was allowed to accompany our group as an escort. Prior to departure a naturalist gave a very well delivered overview on Antarctica and its fauna. We were then taken to the airport where guests from the Seven Seas Mariner joined guests from the Holland-America ship the Prinsendam. As is the case with every flight, we did not know until arrival to the airport whether or not weather conditions would allow us to fly. However, luck was on our side and we took off. Once airborne everyone was given a menu of our in-flight service which started off with Pisco Sours. The mood onboard was jovial; everyone had a window seat and no one was seated over the wing except – the escorts – who did not complain.

Once crossing the Drake Passage we flew over Cape Horn and on toward the Weddell Sea. Down through the clouds huge tabular ice bergs started to appear as we neared the Weddell Peninsula. Weather was good so we the pilot took the plane down through the clouds. We passed over a Chilean research station and then banked across Danger Island. In the distance I could see the arc of the peninsula and couldn’t help thinking of Ernest Shackelton and his men who were marooned on Elephant Island just to the north. We passed low over Paulet Island, low enough to see huge rookeries of Adele penguins. On our return I asked the pilot just how low we were flying and he said at the lowest point we were about 1,000’ above the island – pretty impressive!

Just as we were getting ready to make a course change toward another island the notoriously unpredictable Antarctic weather moved in. Within minutes we were surrounded in clouds and wind. The pilot climbed to clear skies. Our total time viewing time was a little over an hour.

The flight was exhilarating; the pilot was excellent. The service onboard was ample and gracious. The plane was reconfigured for maximum viewing comfort. But was it worth it? I guess it depends on how much $1,700 represents to you. Though I am among those who are concerned about the impact of cruise ships in Antarctic waters, nothing beats being there – the immense, incomprehensible size of the ice; the color; and the stillness. Were I to choose I would have to say that I would rather save my money and apply the $1,700 toward an Antarctic cruise but if this were my only chance to see The Great White Continent – then yes definitely – if you can afford it – go!

Long before it was trendy and fashionable, body tattoos and piercings were reserved for the heartiest of sailors. The tradition started back in the 1770’s, after Captain Cook’s first visits to Tahiti and New Zealand. Seeing the elaborate tattoos and piercings of the islanders his men were quick to emulate the custom. By the time Cook returned home after his first voyage, not only were his men covered with Polynesian tattoos, they had learned how to render their own designs into personal symbols and decoration. Even the prestigious Sir Joseph Banks returned home with a tattoo. From that contact the association of tattoos and sailors was born.

No, this is not to announce that the newest addition to the onboard spa services will be tattoo and body piercing (however, you never can tell!); I wanted to share with you the origin behind some popular nautical traditions including sailing around Cape Horn!

During the Age of Discovery men set out on the smallest of sailing ships with only a sketchy idea of what lay ahead. Having experienced bad seas myself, it amazes me that anyone ever survived those early voyages. Though the course became more predictable, the sea never did. Every trip, no matter how routine, became an adventure from which no one was certain to return.

One of the most perilous journeys was around Cape Horn. Until the opening of the Panama Canal this was the only way to pass from the Atlantic to the Pacific. Cape Horn is actually a small island, the southernmost in the Wolleston Island Group owned by Chile. It was named “Hoorn” in honor of the hometown and ship sailed by Dutch explorer Willem Schouten. However, not knowing the provenance of the name many associated the anglicized “Horn” with the Devil which made sense given the turbulent nature of the sea. Fear and superstition mounted as sailors reported tales of unbelievable hardship at sea. To prove their valor tattooing became the universal means of communicating how salty a seaman you were.

Just for fun, I’ve summarized some of the most popular and interesting. I am sure that many of you are qualified for several of them. Who knows? You just might get inspired!

• A sailor would get a swallow tattoo for every 5000 miles he had sailed because a swallow will always find its way home.
• Golden earrings were used as a means of ensuring they were buried properly should they die at sea or in a foreign port.
• The five pointed nautical star was the most popular symbol as it represented the North Star and celestial navigation.
• The pig and the rooster are tattooed on either the calves or the top of the feet, to prevent a sailor from drowning; these animals were originally carried on most ships in wooden crates. When a ship goes down these crates would float and then catch currents and wash ashore with the other debris from the ship, making the pigs and roosters often the only souls to survive a shipwreck. A tattoo of a pig on the left knee and a rooster (cock) on the right foot signified “Pig on the knee, safety at sea. A cock on the right, never lose a fight.”
• A turtle standing on its back legs symbolizes “shellbacks or those who have crossed the equator and have been indoctrinated into King Neptune’s court.
• An anchor usually noted that the sailor served in the Atlantic or was in the merchant marine.
• A dagger or a dagger through a rose signified a willingness to fight.
• Sailing around Cape Horn, men used a fully-rigged sailing ship and the words “homeward Bound” to guarantee safe passage.
• A black star on your left ear lobe showed you sailed around Cape Horn 1x; a black star on both lobes was for someone who had gone around 5x; and a red star on the forehead for anyone who sailed around 10x or more. It is said that he (or she!) who has such a tattoo will never have to buy a drink in a bar in Liverpool. Yahoo!

Many people fear getting caught in a storm at sea. Bad weather means rough seas; rough seas mean sea sickness! After seventeen years cruising the world, I have run into one or two bad storms but they are harder and harder to come by. Thanks to state of the art stabilizers new ships are so smooth, salty sailors long for the “good ol’ days” when ships rocked and rolled.� � Nevertheless, given the fear and apprehension, cruises to the nastiest waters in� the world like Cape Horn and the Tasman Sea are some of the most popular. Why?

“It’s a gamble.” “It could be dangerous.” “Never have been there.” “It’s exciting.” These are some of the answers I recently received as we headed for Petropavlosk on the Kamchatka Peninsula from Kodiak, Alaska. Crossing the North Pacific can be bad; storms swell up overnight. Though we had made this cruise three years in a row without incident, there always is the first time.

From the NOAA weather station on Kodiak the captain received reports that two large low pressure systems were swirling north and south of the Aleutian chain. To dodge the storm the captain would use the islands for protection. The strategy worked – until we ran out of islands.

Off Attu, the last island in the Aleutian chain, we hit the convergence of the two storms. Our “Perfect Storm” had 30 foot swells and 75 mph sustained winds. During his 24 hour vigil on the bridge, the captain saw a rare sight – a hole in the ocean! Caused by three waves cresting together at the same time they form a shaft-like hole that can swallow a small fishing boat. Onboard with us was Jean Michel Cousteau, who said he knew of this phenomenon but had never seen it himself in all his years at sea.

For the safety of all guests, onboard activities were cancelled for two days as shipboard life ground to a halt. All passengers and non-essential crew were encouraged to stay in their rooms. Those hearty enough to have an appetite ordered room service which was delivered via the stairs as all elevators were shut down. Though there was damage to glassware, china and other unsecured items, luckily no one was injured or hurt.

The exceptional comfort of the ship under such extreme conditions was the result of good maritime engineering and a great team of proactive deck officers. Just as a pilot takes a plane to a smoother altitude, the captain can set a course for smoother seas. Monitoring information from weather stations as well as other ships in the area, course adjustments can be made. Speed can also affect the degree to which the ship will rock and roll. Slowing down by 5 knots may mean a late arrival in your next port, but most would agree the sacrifice is worth it if it means a smoother, safer ride.

The Bay of Campeche on Mexico’s Gulf Coast has never been a destination for tourists. The city of Veracruz located in the midst of the country’s petroleum rich lowlands is Mexico’s busiest port. With high temperatures and equally high humidity it is the quintessential steamy tropical port city. Consequently this part of the country has remained overlooked as tourists opt for places like the Yucatan Peninsula with its white sand beaches, turquoise blue waters and constant Gulf Stream breeze. From its inception in the 1970s when the Mexican government slated the area for major tourism development, the Yucatan has grown from sleepy fishing villages to international resort destinations like Cancun, Playa del Carmen and the Costa Maya. Today, many of these areas are overrun with as many as seven cruise ships in port on any one day. Always looking for new areas to expand the variety of ports on seven day Caribbean itineraries, the cruise industry along with the Mexican government, has developed a new port on the Gulf Coast. Puerto Chiapas is advertised as the gateway to the magnificent Maya ruins of Palenque. Normally considered one of the more “difficult” sites to visit because of its remote location, the existence of a port within easy driving distance of the site is exciting and frightening. Knowing that Palenque is one of the most beautiful Classic Maya city states it is exciting that more people will have the opportunity to see it and appreciate their great achievements. Frightening in that as has been the case in other Maya sites like Tulum and Chichen Itza, the wear and tear of millions of visitors has degraded and destabilized structures requiring them to be off limits to the public forever more. In addition to Palenque, I am not sure what other activities are offered during this port stop. The region of the country is still untouched and I am sure there are many natural areas of interest. It is hard to say how the increase in tourism will effect not only the site but the local economy; hopefully all those factors have been carefully considered with the opening of the port. Only time will tell. If any of you visit the area in the near future, I would sincerely be interested in hearing from you regarding your impressions. If you’d like to read more about what is being planned for Puerto Chiapas, link on the following link http://travel.latimes.com/articles/sns-trvrail2-wk2.

For those of you who thought that gone were the days when you could “hop a freighter” sailing from port to port around the world in an unfettered style, fear not. Container ships have replaced freighters. For more information, you will not want to miss the article that recently appeared on msn.com. It gives you all the information you need to find out more on this option to cruising.

http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/17914533/

If your idea of adventure is sampling the local cocktail in the closest port bar, then trekking through Maya ruins may not be for you. Not the typical “cruise ship shore excursion” trips to these fascinating sites are available from Caribbean ports in Mexico, Belize, Guatemala and Honduras.

On a recent stop in Guatemala, guests of the Seven Seas Mariner had the opportunity to visit the crème de la crème of the Classic Maya world – Tikal, Copan and Quirigua. Upon the approach to Guatemala’s Peten region, the roof combs of Tikal’s temples tower above the tree line. If the sight looks familiar it may be because it was used in the opening scene of the original Star Wars! Visitors to the site are amazed to its extent; the largest Maya city-state yet to found, Tikal supported a population some estimate to be over 200,000 inhabitants. One day is time only to whet one’s appetite for a future visit. Quirigua is the closest site to the port of Santo Tomas de Castillo and can be reached by car or bus. Within the site is an excellent collection of stela – the carved columns that depict dynastic rulers and their hieroglyphic text. Those with walking difficulties will appreciate the level surface throughout the site and its accessibility. Finally, Copan; acclaimed as the “Paris of the Maya world” the site is rich in deep-relief carving and sculpture. In recent years Copan has contributed much to the understanding of the Maya thanks to the archaeological work done by Ricardo Agurcia, Bill Fash and Robert Sharer. Perfectly preserved amidst the core of Temple 16, a replica of the Rosalia Temple is on display in the new Sculpture Museum. As an added bonus, many of the tunnels used by archaeologists are open to the public.

For those seriously interested in learning more about the Maya; mark your calendars for June 14 – 16, 2007, when the III International Congress will meet in Copan. This year’s theme: The Art of Power in the Mundo Maya. Included on the schedule of events in a Mundo Maya Culinary Festival! For more information contact www.copancongress.com.

Everyone knows about Carnaval but what the heck is “Boi Bumba?” Celebrated in the town of Parintins (population 100,000) located on the Amazon River in the state of Pará, it is fast becoming one of Brazil’s most popular local celebrations complete with elaborate costumes and fantasy floats.

Boi Bumba means,“Charge the bull,” and originated as a rural festival. It is held the last weekend in June. The story goes that a wealthy rancher gave his trusted farm hand a prized bull for his care. The farmhand’s pregnant wife became overwhelmed with cravings for (of all things) a taste of the bull’s tongue. So the obedient husband killed the bull and waited for the impeding punishment of the rancher. However, before telling his boss, the farmhand employs the help of a local shaman who manages to resurrect the bull and they all live happily ever after.

But wait - there’s more! The story is played out in town by two competing teams that are represented by a red bull (Garantido) and a blue bull (Caprichoso). During the weeklong festival, the teams compete in the Bumbadromo Stadium. The bigger and better presentation wins the title of reigning team.

As Boi Bumba becomes more popular not just within Brazil but also worldwide, the pageantry is becoming more spectacular. New characters and choreographed dances have been added. With domestic jet service into Parintins from Manaus, the town is full and hotels rooms are booked a year in advance. For more information on Boi Bumba contact www.boibumba.com.