There once was a time when only the most fearless and intrepid sailors braved the dreaded waters of Cape Horn. They marked their passage with tattoos and gold earrings. Today, dozens of cruise ships, “Round The Horn” though it still takes a certain someone to book the trip. Ships may be more stable but the sea is still as unpredictable as ever in this area of oceanic convergence. If you made the crossing yourself, then perhaps you sailed around The Horn with me on one of my 35 trips. As this is a note worthy number, Captain Philippe Fichet Delavault nominated me for admission into the Société Cap Hornier – an organization of captains who successfully sailed around Cape Horn. Originally started in Captain Delavault’s home city of San Malo, the organization is now headquartered in Valparaiso, Chile. For consideration into the Société, Captain Delavault had to document from the ship’s log the eight times I have sailed around The Horn on the Mariner. After review by the Société’s committee, I was granted admission as the first Sister of the Brotherhood of Cap Horniers. Pretty cool, eh?

Sept. 6 - This morning was one of the most beautiful and surreal I’ve experienced in many years. At about 6:00 am we were approaching Holkam Bay and the entrance to Tracy Arm. All through the night the fog horn was blowing so it was no surprise to wake and find visibility nil. On the bridge the Captain had little choice – both Tracy and Endicott Arms were socked in with low fog hanging heavy on the water. Curiously, you could see it was just low fog as every once in a while it would shift exposing brilliant blue sky and a clear view of the surrounding mountain peaks. As the sun was coming up a small portion of the bay cleared; the Captain decided rather than abort the morning we would pursue the patch of sunshine and see what it would bring. We slipped under the fog into the sunshine. It was glorious! Wispy fingers of fog edged the clearing; we were surrounded by towering mountains dusted with new snow. The water was like glass. It was so enchanting; we just sat there in awe. In the quiet, a pod of six humpbacks surfaced; then another two, followed by two more. As we were not moving they lolled about lazily; relaxed and completely not threatened. The low fogs on the horizon made it hard to tell where the water ended and the clouds began. When the whales headed out it looked like they were swimming up into the sky. It was amazing.

After a non-existent summer in which everyone complained about the weather, seeing this was such a gift; it makes me ready to sign up for yet another Alaska season!

Juneau, AK – Eleven guests from the Seven Seas Mariner participating on a dog sledding shore excursion were stranded overnight on a glacier when their return helicopter was unable to take off from Juneau due to foul weather. The group spent the night of August 16, in tents provided for the dog sled camp employees. According to an ERA Helicopters employee, this was the first time such a thing had happened in twenty-two years of operation.

Prior to leaving Juneau guests on the tour were given thick jackets and snow boots so during the long wait on the glacier everyone remained warm and dry. As evening approached and the clouds grew thicker, the camp employees started to make arrangements for the eventuality of overnight visitors. Communication from the heliport in Juneau confirmed that no more helicopters would go out that night. Tents were prepared while a hot dinner of meatloaf with spinach and green beans was served. There was even chocolate cake for dessert. The camp has a generator that pumps water through an on-demand heater for hot water which is used for dishes and basic hygiene and there is an eco-friendly chemical toilet. After word came through that all the guests’ family and friends back onboard had been advised that they were safe and comfortable, everyone settled in for an evening of what they described as “simple pleasures” - cards, chess, board games and real conversation. At ten o’clock they retired to their heavy canvas tents which had elevated wooden plank floors, raised cots with ample sleeping bags and small gas stoves – reminiscent of the same tents used by Alaska’s earliest prospectors and pioneers. As the dogs were fed and put down for the night, one of the guests reported that they howled in a progressive chorus that according to one of the handlers was a sign of appreciation; the dogs’ way of saying thank you and good-night.

The next day the clouds were still low, no helicopters flying. A hot “stick to your ribs” breakfast of baked oatmeal and fruit was served with piping hot coffee. The eleven guests used the time to get to know the dogs and take another whack at mushing while others hiked with the camp employees to look at the spot where water is collected from the glacier ice. By late afternoon concerns were rising that the eleven would have to spend another night on the glacier. From the standpoint of the ship this was getting problematic; the Mariner had already left Juneau and was now getting ready to leave Skagway. Were the guests not able to join the ship they would have to fly to our next port in Canada. Without passports this could be tricky.

Upon our departure from Skagway, Capt. Fichet-Delavault made an announcement that we would be proceeding to Auk Bay north of Juneau. There we would either pick-up our guests were they able to get off the glacier in time or leave their passports and personal belongings so that they could comfortably make their way to Vancouver the next day. Two hours before we arrived we heard that the group had been taken off the glacier but they were being waylaid at Taku Lodge. Just one hour before dark, to the relief of all, we received news that they were now in Juneau and on their way to the ship. Once onboard we learned that the pilot who picked-up the group from the dog sled camp was young and did not feel comfortable going beyond Taku Lodge. Knowing the situation ERA sent up a forty year veteran pilot to complete the transfer. He expertly surveyed the cloud cover and found a way to take everyone safely back to Juneau. Upon their arrival the group unanimously agreed that this was one of the best experiences they had ever had in their lives; they didn’t want to leave and they would pay to do it again. One of the young women was so moved by her experience she applied to work for the camp next year! What could have been a terrible disaster ended up being a wonderful experience that no one will ever forget.

There is so much written about the great state of Alaska it’s hard to narrow down a reading list; but for the first time visitor arriving by cruise ship I find the following books provide basic information to stimulate your interest and appreciation.

From the ship:

“Cruiser Friendly Onboard Guide to Alaska’s Inside Passage,” by Terry Breen. Complitaion of my seventeen years of onboard experience answering what YOU want to know about Alaska as we sail the Inside Passage.

“Alaska Cruise Companion,” by Joe Upton. In depth look at the Inside Passage through the eyes of an experienced fisherman; Joe’s cruise map is excellent!

Alaska History:

“Alaska,” by James Michener. Great read and, as always, well researched.

“Klondike – The Last Great Gold Rush 1896-1898,” by Pierre Berton. Mr. Berton has written many books on the history of Alaska – all worth picking up!

“The Alaska Almanac,” by Mr. Whitekeys. This fact-filled, fun book is a wonderful whacky resource for understanding Alaska. Written in the true spirit of the state!

“Arctic National Wildlife Refuge: Seasons of the Land,” by Subhanken Banerjee. Timely book as we face the dilemma of high gas prices!

Natural History;

“Travels in Alaska,” by John Muir. Can’t get a better feeling for the wilderness than through the eyes of the father of US conservation efforts.

“Roadside Geology of Alaska,” by Cathy Connor.� For those interested in the make-up of the landscape this is your book.

“The Oceanic Society Field Guide to Orcas” and “Humpback whales,” by Hannah Bernard and Michele Morris. When you are in port be sure to pick up these two books for insights into the world of Alaska’s cetaceans.

“Exploring Alaska’s Birds” by Richard Emanuel and George Matz. So many birds, so little time – this book will help!

“Alaska’s Mammals; A Guide to Selected Species,” by Dave Smith

Native Alaska:

“The Native Peoples of Alaska,” by David Langdon.� Great introduction to Alaska’s four main Native cultural groups.

“The Tlingit History,” by George Thornton Emmons.

“Tlingit: Their Art and Culture,” by David Hancock.

“Looking at Indian Art of the Northwest Coast,” by Hillary Stewart. Primer for those interested in the exquisite art of the Northwest Coast people.

“Northwest Coast Art: Analysis of Form,” by Bill Holm. Great book to help you decipher the Native art of the Inside Passage.

First of all – right out of the gate before you start to pack that evening dress or tuxedo – check with your travel agent or cruise line to see if your ship has a Dress Code for your Alaskan cruise! In the spirit of The Last Frontier, many cruise lines have relaxed dress codes in Alaska. If that pertains to you, evening clothes traditionally warranted on a cruise ship will not be necessary. Instead, the look of “Country Club Casual” will be the norm after 6pm in all public areas; which usually means sport coats for men (no tie – yippee!) and sweater and slacks or a skirt for ladies. Please note; jeans and t-shirts after 6pm are still considered a no-no by many ships.

Now, with the fashion end of clothing aside, what should be in your suitcase?� I say:

1. Good walking shoes. You don’t need hiking boots (unless you intend to do some serious hiking – there are places where that is possible in case you are interested.)� Bring comfortable shoes that will allow for wet surfaces (rainy decks and city sidewalks) and long periods of standing (lots to see from the rails of the ship!). Be sure to wear your new cruise shoes before coming onboard to break them in – nothing worse than blisters from new shoes and your cruise!
2. Layered clothing. The old saying in Alaska is if you don’t like the weather wait a few minutes and it will change. Be prepared. It doesn’t have to be fancy but a seasoned traveler to Alaska always has extra socks, a light water-proof/wind-proof jacket or poncho, a hat and a sweater or sweatshirt. I always wear my light-weight down jacket; it is water-proof and warm when it is cold; cool when it is warm. � Standing out on deck watching whales or glaciers – it can get nippy! But remember, it does get warm in Alaska during the summer as well; so layers help you regulate your temperature as well as withstand the elements.
3. Insect repellant? I have to say, I am a mosquito magnet – but unless I am going hiking in deep woods, I do not bring insect repellant with me. That said, if you are going off on trails – do take along some DEET . Mosquitos in Southeast are heaviest in June. Make sure you spray your clothes as well as exposed skin – and don’t forget the top of your head and ears!
4. Binoculars. You will great satisfaction from your cruise by having a good pair of binoculars. They do not need to be super-duper, just good enough for you to see what you want to see. If you are not experienced using binoculars – PRACTICE! Nothing is worse than missing a great moment because you can’t figure out how to use the binoculars (and believe me I have seen it!).
5. Camera. There will be many “Kodak moments” on your Alaska cruise and I am sure you will want to capture them all from eagles in the trees to sunsets at midnight! My only request is once in a while put the camera down; take a minute to record the moment for yourself, in your heart. Breathe. Memories are made of this.

Old San Juan, Puerto Rico has to be one of the most romantic cities in the world. Streets of slate blue cobble-stones weave through colonial buildings constructed by the Spanish in the 1500’s making San Juan the oldest city under the United States flag. Popular with jet-setters since the 1950’s, San Juan is experiencing a resurgence of interest from travelers especially on cruise ships. Ships dock just steps from the historic downtown making it convenient to explore the Old City. While there I recently had a chance to make a few discoveries of my own. Here are some of my fun facts and insider’s tips;

Short-cut to the Bacardi Rum Factory – Started in Cuba in 1862, Bacardi is the second oldest rum distillery in the world after Mount Gay in Barbados. After the Revolution in 1962, the Bacardi family moved the enterprise to the nearby island of Puerto Rico where it grew into the largest rum distillery in the world. Called the Cathedral to Rum; the factory is located across the bay in Cataño. Though you can take a tour, busses must make the long drive around the bay to the factory making their stay short when there is much to see. I found out that right next to the cruise terminal is a small local ferry that runs daily. It charges only .75 cents each way and takes about ten minutes! From the ferry landing turn to your right and continue one block and you’ll find shuttle buses that leave for the factory – they charge $3.00 each way. Once there the tour is FREE and you also get two complimentary drinks! In addition to the guided tour there are beautiful grounds for relaxing and a gift shop which is the only place in the world where you can purchase special bottles of “Bacardi Reserva.”

Smallest Apartment Building in the World – With all the historic monuments to be visited in Old San Juan, leave it to me to find “The Smallest Apartment Building in The World.” Yes, it’s true. Constructed in the 16^th century, this building nestled between two other large houses measures only 18 feet in width. It is very close to the Park of the Doves (or Pigeons for the less poetic) on a section of the old wall. The bright yellow structure can be seen from the ship as you enter or leave the cruise terminal. Though this house is in the Guinness Book of World’s Records no explanation is given how it came to be. Looking at the building so tightly squeezed between the other structures, there has to be a story there!

Mama mia! When the SeaDream I, sailed into Gustavia Harbor, in St. Barts - she turned heads! This sleek, sexy ship has 54 outside staterooms that measure 195 square feet. The master suite has 450 square feet with private master bedroom and bath, living and dining room and guest bath. There is a spa, fitness center, casino, 24 hour room service and boutique onboard plus beautiful bars and dining revenues. Their slogan is, “its yachting, not cruising,” and they promise once you try a SeaDream yacht you will never cruise again.

The SeaDream I is elegant and the people I met onshore were very happy with what they were experiencing. Being so impressed with the grand entrance she made, I went online to look at their website. It looks like the perfect environment for the independent, motivated traveler who wants comfort and luxury without the fuss. With longer stays in port and a more low-keyed environment onboard, it feels like one’s own yacht. Certainly it won’t be for everyone – there’s no “big” entertainment, activities or events – however, there is staff, equipment and resources for enjoying days at sea and exploring in port. As I said, I think SeaDream Yachts are ideal for the independent and self motivated traveler who wants comfort and luxury without the fuss. Sounds great to me!

The biggest party in the world is Rio de Janeiro’s celebration of Carnaval. People from all over flock to the city to watch the magnificent parades of the competing samba schools. Getting a berth for a cruise ship is almost as difficult as getting a hotel room. Though the Seven Seas Mariner arrived late for the actual pre-Lenten celebration we were just in time for the Winner’s Parade. On Ash Wednesday, the winners of the coveted competition were announced; for the fifth time in six years Bejia Flor won first place. The next day, the top five schools performed to a sold out crowd in the world famous Sambadromo. Tickets for seats were going from $100 to stand in the bleachers to $1000 for a VIP box.

Lucky me – I was invited to see the parade from ring side seats – Sector 11, Frisa 5. For those thinking about attending next year, I highly recommend this location which was open and spacious with a great view. I was close enough to catch various bits of costume that were tossed into the crowds. (The lucky people in the front row were actually given headdresses and feathered capes!) The entire Sambadromo which holds 60,000 people was packed. There were plenty of well-identifiable personnel to help direct and lots of police to discourage petty theft. Though there were throngs of people it felt very relaxed and safe.

Well, as relaxed as you can be with the driving drums of the batteria causing even the most non- rhythmic gringo feet to start tapping. Everyone was singing. Everyone was dancing. The costumes of the samba schools were fantastic and the floats were mind-boggling; women danced on 40’ tall white horses, a pyramid of people created a crystal chandelier, a doll house was filled with transvestites – it kept getting bigger and better with each school. I regret that I had to leave at 1am; but some of my fellow guests watched the whole thing which ended at sunrise. Bravo!

If you have ever dreamed of going to Rio for Carnaval, make sure that you book your seats in advance. All the samba schools compete throughout the weekend through to Fat Tuesday; finalist perform one last show in the Winner’s Parade on Thursday. But don’t forget that located not too far from the cruise ship terminal in Port Maura is the new Cidade de Samba which is now open to the public where you can see floats being made and learn more about the history of samba and Rio’s winning samba schools.

More and more people are venturing off to visit The White Continent of Antarctica. Cruise ship departures from Ushuaia, Argentina are at an all time high giving rise to massive renovation and investment in the town’s infrastructure. But after the incident last November involving the expeditionary ship the Explorer; environmentalists are questioning how wise it is to have so many commercial ships in an area that is so fragile and potentially dangerous. In response, Lan Chile airlines offers an over flight. Departing from Punta Arenas, Chile, the 6 hour tour allows passengers onboard the AB300 to glimpse a little of Antarctica – weather permitting.

Every once in a while, this job has its benefits and most gratefully, I was allowed to accompany our group as an escort. Prior to departure a naturalist gave a very well delivered overview on Antarctica and its fauna. We were then taken to the airport where guests from the Seven Seas Mariner joined guests from the Holland-America ship the Prinsendam. As is the case with every flight, we did not know until arrival to the airport whether or not weather conditions would allow us to fly. However, luck was on our side and we took off. Once airborne everyone was given a menu of our in-flight service which started off with Pisco Sours. The mood onboard was jovial; everyone had a window seat and no one was seated over the wing except – the escorts – who did not complain.

Once crossing the Drake Passage we flew over Cape Horn and on toward the Weddell Sea. Down through the clouds huge tabular ice bergs started to appear as we neared the Weddell Peninsula. Weather was good so we the pilot took the plane down through the clouds. We passed over a Chilean research station and then banked across Danger Island. In the distance I could see the arc of the peninsula and couldn’t help thinking of Ernest Shackelton and his men who were marooned on Elephant Island just to the north. We passed low over Paulet Island, low enough to see huge rookeries of Adele penguins. On our return I asked the pilot just how low we were flying and he said at the lowest point we were about 1,000’ above the island – pretty impressive!

Just as we were getting ready to make a course change toward another island the notoriously unpredictable Antarctic weather moved in. Within minutes we were surrounded in clouds and wind. The pilot climbed to clear skies. Our total time viewing time was a little over an hour.

The flight was exhilarating; the pilot was excellent. The service onboard was ample and gracious. The plane was reconfigured for maximum viewing comfort. But was it worth it? I guess it depends on how much $1,700 represents to you. Though I am among those who are concerned about the impact of cruise ships in Antarctic waters, nothing beats being there – the immense, incomprehensible size of the ice; the color; and the stillness. Were I to choose I would have to say that I would rather save my money and apply the $1,700 toward an Antarctic cruise but if this were my only chance to see The Great White Continent – then yes definitely – if you can afford it – go!

Tidewater glaciers exist only in three places in the world; one of which is Chile. As a highlight of a cruise through the fjords ships detour to visit the few remaining tidewaters that are accessible; one of the most popular places is the Beagle Channel. During my talk, “Glaciers: Rivers of Ice,” I thought it would be funny to say something absurd like the Beagle Channel was named because of the abundance of wild beagles that were found there in the 1800’s. The more I thought about it, the funnier it seemed – to me. To make matters worse, I found a picture of beagles bounding through a field. Thinking this little bit of silliness would break the monotony of all these serious talks, I threw in the picture. The next day when I showed the image and said what I thought was a joke – no one laughed. I saw a few doubtful looks, but no snickers, no nothing. I apologized for my sense of humor and the fact I thought the idea of wild beagles roaming the mountains of Tierra del Fuego was funny, as obviously no one else did. The next day after we passed the glaciers, a guest came to me and said, “I thought you needed to know, a lady was looking for the beagles – and I am afraid she was serious.” I didn’t know whether to laugh or cry. Makes me have greater respect for the power of the microphone!