>I have received many, many requests to see more of the progress being made in my apartment in Montevideo. Let me say, the work is not done by any means but things are getting better and better.

I moved in officially in September. The place was damp and dank as the windows had been closed and the moisture trapped in the walls prior to the completion of the new roof was now evaporating inside. My new paint and plaster was a mess. I still do not have heat or air conditioning installed so there was no way to dry the place out until summer. The temperatures seemed to change overnight and by November; we went from rainy, cold winter to hot, sunny summer. The walls dried rapidly once the windows were left open. Had I been able to stay in town longer I could have started to replaster, paint and finally decorate to make the place as I had hoped.

In the meantime I shopped online via Mercado Libre; the Latin American equivalent of Craig’s List and eBay together. The way it works is you can arrange to see an item before you buy it and decide if you want it or you can buy it, see it and still decide if you want to go through with the transaction. I bought a leather chair and a small couch for the time being; my big find was an incredibly ornate 19th century antique Verseille chandelier that I hope to hang in my hallway which is the physical and symbolic heart of the home. It will be fun.

So with that - take a look! If anyone is planning a trip to Montevideo, I am planning on putting into the rental pool while I am away. $90.00 a night for an entire two bedroom apartment is not bad. The W hotel across the street charges $380!

It all started innocently enough; I was to be the Study Leader for a group of 37 through the Panama Canal from New York to Los Angeles. The group of Road Scholars consisted of a wonderful multi-generational mix of travelers interested in learning. Love it! Everything was according to plan until little white swirls started to appear on the images taken by weather satellites high over the coast of Florida. As those swirls grew progressively larger the media had already dubbed it, “Frankenstorm!”

Coming up from Montevideo to New York was a twenty-seven hour flight. Like thousands of others I got delayed and rerouted avoiding the NYC area entirely.I was lucky I eventually flew to Charleston where the ship - Crystal Symphony - was now waiting. My fellow Road Scholars were not so lucky; many had already flown into New York and were stuck. The ship could not enter New York Harbor so it was directed to go to Charleston from Boston.The group in New York had to charter a bus and drive to Charleston. When they finally arrived I was waiting to greet them at the entrance of the Mills House; after flying 27 hours I was hoping for an early night - but as they trudged past me I could see that is exactly what they wanted as well! Miraculously everyone arrived in relatively good humor thanks in a large part to the buoyant spirit of Group Leader Valerie Hershfield.

The next day we boarded the Crystal Symphony along with all the other passengers who had been rerouted. I had the pleasure of touring the Symphony in Alaska last year during a book signing; I was impressed then and was again once back onboard. Cruising as a guest was an unexpected delight. I now can understand why people like this whole thing - it was pretty nice!

I gave one or two talks every sea day in addition to the host of formal lectures by other enrichment speakers onboard. Having never worked with Road Scholar before I was impressed by the interest level of the group which was multi-generational. Road Scholar - aka Elderhostel - is reaching beyond its prveious demographic to attract younger travelers with an ardent interest in travel as an educational experience. I think many were disappointed in the cruise aspect of the trip - not that the ship wasn’t exceptional - but the many independent options available onboard seemed to dilute some of the cohesiveness created on other trips. Nevertheless we had a great transit through the Canal which was the focus of the program.

Dining together as a group I had a chance to learn more about everyone and Road Scholar. Many within the group have taken upwards of 70 trips. Due to the educational aspect of the organization Road Scholar programs include some very interesting, non-traditional destinations like Cuba! I was fascinated to hear about week long trips that focused on a stately home or an art exhibit. Programs include land-based trips as well as cruises on large and small ships. For more information contact: www.roadscholar.org

Antarctica truly is the last frontier. The lure of the White Continent has called to explorers and adventurers; whalers and furriers; scientists and conservationists.

During the past thirty years tourists have also ventured beyond the notorious Drake Passage to explore Antarctica with its smoldering volcanic beaches, islands filled with squawking penguins and magnificent blue tabular icebergs. Most of those tourists arrived by ship. Due to the increase in ships of various size and shape, and the environmental threat they pose, in 2011 the Antarctica Treaty Organization started to regulate tourism by prohibiting in Antarctic waters any ship that burns “heavy fuel.” (See my blogs of 2010-07-30 No more big ships in Antarctica after August 2011 and 2010-02-20 Antarctica tightens restrictions on cruise ships.)

The new regulation excluded all but small, expeditionary-type vessels and larger ships that can burn lighter, cleaner fuel. In response to the demand for Antarctic itineraries Crystal Symphony will be returning to Antarctica in 2013/2014, as will Azamara Quest, Holland America’s Prinsendam, Princess’s Star Princess, and last but not least, the Seabourn Quest will make its inaugural cruise. Though most of the larger ships will do only “scenic sailing” (no landings allowed for ship carrying over 400 passengers) Crystal does advertise that it includes “a boots on the ground experience” which looks to be a flight and landing.

While onboard the Crystal Symphony I had the opportunity to ask Captain Egil Giske how the Symphony will comply with the new environmental regulations. He explained that the new Antarctic requirements are exactly the same as those imposed upon ships in the State of California. I had a chance to look into those requirements and it looks like the switch to a lighter, cleaner, more eco-friendly fuel requires no alteration to the engine department however it is more expensive. According to the number of ships back in the market looks like the cost of the expense can be off-set by the demand for the destination.

I have not heard of any immediate plans for Regent’s return to Antarctica but all I can is, I’m ready!

Okay, I know that many of you are anxious to know how everything is here in Montevideo. Well, first of all, my apartment which is in an old building in the Old City - Ciudad Vieja - is still not completely complete. It is liveable and I am here. Details to follow.

This area is going through a lot of changes. Since I was last here there are very chic stores including La Opera, from Buenos Aires, right here on the corner of the pedestrian street Sarandi. More cafes. Some very exclusive looking little restaurants and a new “W-style” hotel on my street corner. My neighbor, Andres, is a terrific young man who has invested a considerable amount of money in restoring his place. We are just the two of us on the upper floor. He did what I would have liked to have done - restoring everything. But then he has had the time and money; me not so much.

One thing that we both needed new was a roof. As inspections are not required here nor does the owner need to disclose anything about the condition of the place, neither Andres nor I were aware that all our investment would be for not if we didn’t get a new roof on fast. So we did. Amazingly, it was completed two days before what is being called The Storm of The Century; hurricane force winds and terrible rain. Our new roof held but as I was not here for the weeks that followed, all the moisture that would normally escape through the roof is now coming through the walls. As a result all my new plaster is blistered and I have outbreaks of mold. Nothing that can’t be fixed but it needs to be dried out — big time. Paper becomes soggy. My clothes feel like damp rags. My hair looks like a poodle. I am buying a dehumidifier which should help and soon it will be summer.

My kitchen is really cute. My dear friends Shirley and Jorge did an incredible job sourcing the tiles and granite. I would not give any awards to the kitchen “designer” - I have never seen a kitchen where you cannot stand in front of the sink and have to move the stove to get to cabinets - but considering what it looked like before - no complaints.

Last February, Elda Pauluzzi and I bought the appliances. It would have been nice if the “designer” would have taken their size into consideration but again, no complaints. The one thing I was so excited about was an Italian washer/dryer combo - came in at almost $900. I was assured it was installed and worked. Yesterday I gave it a test run — oh boy! I don’t know where the drainage hose goes but I do know it ends up on the other side of the kitchen on the floor. The place was flooded. Then the machine began spin cycle — because this thing uses centrifugal force to dry - it is really, really powerful. It started to bash the counter which started to crack. Then it walked out like Robby the Robot and hit the stove. Scratched the new hardwood floors before unplugging itself. Because the machine was still filled with water I had to hold it through four spin cycles before it drained into a bucket! Mama mia! I pushed it back into the counter and continued the dry cycle which was quiet and uneventful — and very dry. Think this puppy is going to have to find a new home.

I have an incredible new bathroom. My cute little bathtub is perfect for me. I adore having individual water heaters for HOT water on demand. The bathroom’s upper surfaces are not fixed yet - again waiting the drier conditions.

Old buildings are like children, they need constant attention. I am afraid that as I will soon be leaving again the apartment will digress without someone here staying on top of all the little issues. I cannot yet do a final painting nor can I buy furniture until everything is dry. Shirley and Jorge left me a few things to use for the time being; it doesn’t look as beautiful as I had been dreaming about - but it’s okay.

Good news is that property values are going through the roof - so anyone looking to buy here or along the beach - now would be the time!

More later.

For the last few weeks of the Alaska season I was so excited; I was going on vacation! Southwest had “dinged” me with an offer of 50% off the lowest online fare IF travel was on one day of the week during September. I thought - I could do that. Now where to go?

For someone who has had the great fortune to walk The Great Wall of China; stay in a Buddhist monastery in Koyasan, Japan; watch wildebeests at a watering hole at daybreak in Kruger National Park in South Africa; and drink Blood Mary’s at the original Blood Mary’s in Bora Bora; where would you REALLY want to go? My answer: Washington D.C.

Just the fact that was my answer was very significant to me. I knew about the history and artifacts of so many countries; it was time I learned something about my own!

As I started to organize and anticipate my week, I was surprised how emotional all this was. In planning my expenses I could not believe that all the museums were free - that is not the case in most countries. That gesture of inclusion really made me feel like this was my history - and in a tiny way by paying my taxes and doing my part, I am contributing toward maintaining this incredible legacy.

I wanted to start where all this started - with the Declaration of Independence. I did not know if it was even available to the public - again, in many countries this would not be the case. But there it was in the National Archives, along with the Constitution and Bill of Rights. Really mind-boggling how something conceived by a group of “rebels”, many of whom were wealthy slave-owners, could stand the test of time and evolve into the standard of justice and liberty now endowed across age, race, gender, ethnicity, and religion. I was so moved I bought a pocket version in the gift shop!

Onward, I jumped to the National Mall and began my tour of all the museums within The Smithsonian. Yes, all. In my seven days I managed to log in an average of 15 miles walking, every day! I began with the Museum of American History - by far my favorite. It was very moving to see things like the original Star Spangled Banner and the hat President Lincoln wore to Ford’s Theater the evening he was shot. Lincoln placed the hat on the chair next to him; after he was wounded he was taken across the street where he died; the hat was removed and had been hidden away for years, only recently has been put on display.

On my list of priorities was the new American Indian Museum which turned out to be my greatest disappointment. Beautiful building, very poor presentation of so much material. On to the Museum of Air and Space; whoppee!! This was better than Disneyland: Apollo 11 space capsule; original Wright Brother’s plane; Spirit of St. Louis; Neil Armstrong’s lunar landing suit - all too cool! Have to admit running through all the various museums of art except the National Portrait Gallery; I spent a lot of time here. In one tiny photo I saw the face of Mary Ann Brown Patten, a 19 year old woman who at seven months pregnant skippered her husband’s clipper ship the Neptune’s Car around Cape Horn after her he feel ill with tuberculosis and his second officer was in the brig for insubordination - amazing stories.

I treated myself to an evening at the theater;went to see Kathleen Turner in Red Hot Patriot. That was fun. I loved Molly Ivins and enjoyed the way the play was done. I also took Saturday morning off to go to the Eastern Market; one of the oldest neighborhood markets in the country. That was fun. Felt very “in-the-know” to be fighting for vintage jewelry with Washington socialites.

Walked through Georgetown. Walked to Dupont Circle. Went to National Geographic. Walked to St. John’s Church and sat in Lincoln’s pew. Cruised the White House. Went to the Library of Congress national book fair. Went to Washington Monument; Lincoln Memorial; WWII Memorial, Vietnam Memorial.

Final day, I went to the National Botanical Gardens, which were lovely, and walked around the Capitol Building. Figured I had to see it all, so I walked up past the Office of the House of Representative and to The Library of Congress. I was not prepared for this one; probably the most beautiful building in the city! There were also several very good exhibits including The Americas (with a rare Waldseemüller map) and Comedy and Satire hosted by Stephen Colbert. The Supreme Court facade is being restored so I did not go there. Across the street I saw tourists coming out of The Capitol - I did not know it was open to the public - so I went over to see. Yup, it is and there are tours. So I took one. At the end the guide said if anyone had an invitation to the Senate or House galleries you could go this way or that way. I asked how one got an invitation and he said you needed to ask your state representative. I thought that meant something that would have had to be taken care of before you arrived - not so. The guide said, go next door and ask ‘em. So I did! I ran over to the Senate Offices - went through security - and asked the guard, how do I find my senator? He said New Mexico was not in that building but I could ask anyone with a flag. So I ran down the hall and stumbled into the first office, sign said, Senator Inhofe, Oklahoma. Whoa, nope. I went across the hall. Senator Rand Paul, Kentucky. Oh no! Then I crossed the hall again - I must have looked like a pin-ball - Senator John Kerry, New York. Aah… I can ask you. The Senator’s staffers were laughing like I had just run an obstacle course. How many passes do you want, they asked? I did not realize they could give me both chambers so I took them all. I ran back across the street and did the whole shabang! It was pretty exciting seeing the House Chamber where the President gives the State of The Union. In the Senate Chambers the aide told me which were the candy desks. Very fun. I ended the last day taking the Metro to Alexandria. Phew!

Greatest bargain: Metro Smart-pass. I went everywhere!
Greatest fashion flash-back: Suede elbow patches on the jackets of Georgetown academics.
Best meal: Hard Times Cafe, Alexandria - gotta have the chili!
Greatest cultural experience: Taking the metro with Nationals fans after the game when they won - made lots of friends fast!

On September 18th, I was invited by Karl Storch, of Sun Tours, Albuquerque to do an introduction to Alaska for one hundred of his clients interested in the destination. The event held a the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center was co-hosted by Oceania Cruises.

Sun Tours offers a selection of cruise departures in 2013, including one on Regatta to Alaska, July 12 - 22.

I was told about Karl and Sun Tours by Regent guests who were on with me last year in South America. As a local Albuquerque company I was anxious to meet Karl and Linda (who is charge of all the cruises.) After learning more about their programs I was so impressed I was ready to sign-up especially for a Mystery Tour. That’s right - a Mystery Tour! You sign-up not knowing where you are going nor what you will do; you only know the travel dates and price — the rest is left up to faith and Karl! According to the people in attendance at the presentation, these are Sun Tours’ most popular offerings!

Next time you are up for an adventure, check ‘em out: http://www.suntoursus.com

Our day in Hoonah started out in pea-soup fog. The fog horn sounded regularly as we dropped anchor in Port Frederick. The tenders puttered off into the fog heading in faith toward Icy Strait Point. Directly overhead there was a hint of blue indicating the prospect of a better day. After hours of laboring under the drone of the fog horn, the fog, just as Carl Sandberg’s described it on little cat’s feet, rolled back revealing a truly glorious, crisp, early-fall day. It was breathtaking. From the ship to the north you could see across Icy Strait toward the Chilkat Mountains; to the west every peak on the Fairweather Range was identifiable. It seemed as though you could not ask for more.

As planned I was to go to the bridge to watch for whales. Just as we pulled the anchor and headed out of the bay we were escorted by four humpback whales. They rose and dove gracefully as if in a choreographed farewell. Off in the distance was the Diamond Princess, it was heading east. The pilot on-board radioed to our pilot alerting him that they had seen lots of whales. This is a common courtesy to let the guests on other ships enjoy what they had seen, so after hearing this, I passed on the word to our guests. In the back of my mind I wondered if the little farewell delegation we had just seen was what the pilot was referencing.

Out on Icy Strait we continued to the west. Far, far off in the distance I saw several cottonball-esque clouds on the horizon; these “clouds” were too big and too far away to the the blow of whales. I grabbed binoculars. I could not believe my eyes. The horizon was filled with blow after blow of whales and the cottonbal-esque clouds were the splashes of whales breaching everywhere - again and again. Their bodies silhouetted again the setting sun looked like jumping beans popping up out of the water. It was insane! I was so excited I asked Cruise Director Ray Solaire to make a general announcement throughout the entire ship - this could not be missed!

As we continued to approach the area known as Point Adolphus it was evident there were over one hundred whales. They were on all sides of the ship. Thanks to ray’s announcement the decks and balconies were filled with guests and crew armed and ready with cameras and binoculars. Amazingly the advancing ship did not bother the whales, they carried-on as though we were not there. Clusters of up to twenty-five whales rose to the surface in intervals, their blow looking like smokestacks of an industrial city. I stopped trying to make comment as there were too many whales to keep up with. Whales were breaching so close to the ship the folds in their throats were clearly visible as were the knobs on their pectoral fins.

We continued to be surrounded by the whales for well over two hours. I finally called it quits when there were “only” six whales around the ship. I was exhausted. In 23 years I have never seen anything like it. When someone asks,”being out here on the ship for so long, does it ever get old?” My answer is always, “no”, exactly because of days like today.

Our last visit to Yakutat Bay was looking very sad. Poor visibility and a moderate but limiting amount of ice. We traveled up to Point Latouche and sat there looking into the fog and ice. After more than an hour the decision was made to leave.

As we turned around and started back down the bay the clouds lifted. Like a curtain the fog lifted to reveal a crystal clear day! Those who had congregated at the back of the ship watched as the glacier was now brilliantly in view. Guests were calling to the reception desk asking if we could go back. Department heads trying to manage all the agitated guests also asked the same question, are we going back? Unbeknownst to most, we had used our allotted time for the day, for the visit. It was wasted by the bad weather; we needed to move on to make our next port.

As many, myself included, watched in envy as the Radiance of the Sea steamed toward the glacier to enjoy the sunny day all of a sudden we were turning around! Cruise Director Ray Solaire spotted me down the corridor and shouted,”we are going back!” I ran up to the bridge and grabbed the microphone to make the formal announcement that yes indeed we were going back!

What was going to be a sad start to our last cruise of the season turned out to be a euphoric celebration. The captain had made a heroic decision that not only saved the day but may have saved the cruise. Thank you Captain Armellino!

The following article by Harry Shattuck appeared in the Houston Chronicle.

“Carnival has become the latest cruise line to try out an all-you-can-drink package, with a trial run of its “My Awesome Bar Program,” on its Victory ship.

The world’s largest cruise company is offering passengers the option of purchasing unlimited access to wine, beer, spirits, as well as sodas and non-alcoholic frozen cocktails for $42.95 per person per day, plus an automatic 15 percent gratuity of $6.44, according to USATODAY.com. The package can be used to buy all wines and cocktails priced at $10 and lower. Full bottles of wine and champagne, as well as any glasses of wine over $10, are available for a 25 percent discount, the website reported.

To prevent two people in the same cabin from trying to share a package, the cruise line is requiring that anyone 21 years or older in the same berth to each purchase the option

The decision follows other cruise lines, including Royal Caribbean, Celebrity and Oceania, that offer similar types of unlimited beverage packages, according to cruisecritic.com.

Carnival spokesman Vance Gulliksen told cruisecritic.com that the trial has been ongoing since Victory’s Aug. 5 departure from Miami, Fla. He cited convenience and value as the reasons behind the move.

Whether the cruise line extends the package to its other 23 ships remains to be seen. Some online commenters questioned the move, saying it may encourage more drunkenness on cruises.

The cruise line sails the Carnival Triumph from its departure port in Galveston.”

Starting May 12, the Seven Seas Navigator will be going into to dry-dock for extensive re-modeling. The ship will be out-of-service until May 30, at which time the regular 7-day Alaska cruises resume.

Though I do not have all the details I do know that preparations are being made for the following:

New Carpeting throughout.
New wall and window treatments in select areas.
Major face-lift for all the suites.
Improvements to the Seven Seas Show Lounge.
Enlargement of Prime 7.
Re-modeling of La Veranda including installation of new menu dinner service.
Remodeling of Pool deck including new decking.
New steam and sauna in Spa.

I can hardly wait to see how it all comes out. As soon as the ship is back in service I will take pictures for all to see.