On January 9, 2008, I sailed through the Panama Canal for the seventieth time! Later that day we anchored off the island of Flamingo within view of the city of Panama. The amount of growth that has taken place over the past year is phenomenal – new hotels, skyscrapers, bank buildings and a residential complex by none other than Donald Trump – a sign things really must be looking up economically for the country! Many US citizens are seeing Panama as the next Costa Rica not only for tourism and environmentally oriented experiences but also for investment and retirement. With an economy still closely tied to the US, where the local currency is used interchangeably with the US dollar, the face of Panama looks much different.

The entire ship was invited to a welcome cocktail hosted at the new Panama Canal Authority Visitor’s Center in Miraflores Locks. Though I have sailed through the Canal many times I have never had the chance to see the new center which opened a few years ago. Initially I was very critical of its location being so close to the first set of locks in Miraflores however precautions were taken to screen everyone entering the facility. The Visitors Center is beautifully designed; in addition to a film there are interpretative displays that take you floor by floor through the importance of the Canal from its historic building to environmental resources and finally the new Third Locks Project. Like the bottom floor, the upper terrace on top is open for viewing of the Canal. Guests were delighted by not only the facility but also the music and sampling of local food provided by the Center’s Executive Chef Hannibal Achiari.

The following day guests were free to explore Panama City. My mission was twofold; to buy a fresh pod of cacao and visit the Ministry of Tourism. The wild goose chase through the city in search of the cacao pod proved fruitless – excuse the pun – however the drive gave me a chance to see areas of the city few tourists would ever see. I was charmed by small neighborhoods green with gardens and flowers; and surprised by the number of upscale shopping malls and US chain restaurants. I could not help but feel the urgency to invest in Panama before it was too late.

The purpose of my meeting with the Ministry was to gain support for my book on the Panama Canal. It its final stages, I want it read and edited by the Panama Canal Authority and the Ministry with the ultimate goal of having an endorsement and forward by the Minister himself – the Honorable Rubén Blades. All that is underway and I am more excited than I can express. Given there are several books out on cruising in Alaska (though none have my unique personal perspective and advantage) there are no such similar books about the Panama Canal. Mine will be the first! I am looking forward to not only providing highlights of the ship’s transit but also sparking interest in future visits to explore travel opportunities within the country.

Executive Chef Mike Römhild is constantly striving to bring the taste and flavor of the local destination onboard the Seven Seas Mariner. As part of this goal Mike has been researching recipes to create a signature Destination Dish each day reflecting the culinary delights of the upcoming port. Aiding and abetting Mike in his plans, I have been enlisted to help with the selection of menu items and – and – the procurement of ingredients. Normally the ship’s Provisions Master is responsible for filling the Chef’s shopping list; but when it comes to specialty items – sometimes you need to bring in an expert. That’s where I come in!

Yesterday the ship was in Manta, Ecuador; a place where years ago I discovered a wonderful secret salsa. Sailing on the Royal Princess my friend Pam Austin and I were looking for somewhere to eat in this very industrial fishing town. We were told to try the Manta Yacht Club. We must have walked past the place three times because no where did it look like there was a “yacht club.” Finally someone said that we standing in front of it! We knocked. In the middle of the large wooden gate a small door slid open just big enough for a face to appear. “What do you want?” I felt like saying, “Joe sent us,” but instead explained we were from the ship, someone had directed us there and we wanted to eat. We showed the disembodied face our ID and he must have thought us harmless as we were admitted – but only for lunch! Our meal was wonderful; served on an open terrace we had fresh fish, cold beer and the most delicious salsa either of us had ever had. I asked how it was made; the basic ingredient was a special chile that looked like a small pumpkin but the secret was – yellow mustard! Though we took some back and tried in vain to replicate the recipe we never made anything like our “Manta Picante.”

Knowing this secret sauce exists, I told Mike. Intrigued he wanted me to get some. Fine – no problem – how much? He said, “About two gallons!” When I showed up yesterday asking in the small kitchen for two gallons of salsa you can imagine the look on their faces. I told them money was no object as I realized making me this amount of salsa would probably preclude them from doing anything else all morning. Later that afternoon I picked up the containers containing the freshest, most tasty and fragrant salsa you can imagine. The price tag: $18. As the Destination Dish for the evening our Manta Picante was the perfect accent to Ecuadorian potato soup with cheese and grilled fish fillet. For guests who may not be nervy enough to eat ashore, we were successful in really bringing an authentic taste onboard. Contact me if you’d like the recipe.

Author, speaker, traveler and explorer, William Sununu has compiled in, “The Sweet Life,” an entertaining set of cultural lessons from around the world. Each chapter uses an ethnic scenario to exemplify life lessons for a happier and more balanced life. Chapters range from the Scandinavian law of simple living, and humility to Cuban guidelines on child rearing. This book is a fun read whether you are planning a trip or exploring the world from your favorite armchair. For more information please contact me and I will forward your request to William!

The Amazon is the largest rainforest in the world and the most dynamic ecosystem on the planet. Through the tireless efforts of environmentalists and conservationists we have been shown that the region once thought of as tough, hostile and chaotic is really sensitive and fragile hanging by a tiny thread of symbiotic balance. Indiscriminate logging practices, mining, and rampant farming of soy threatens to disrupt that balance putting the health of the planet in jeopardy.

Since 1990, the Amazon Herb Company has been working with remote indigenous populations challenged by encroaching development. Their goal is to provide these communities with new models for sustainable economies. Working with the Regional Institute for the Development of Native Communities in Peru, they are helping the local people learn how to harvest and use herbs and plants for commercial purposes. At the Yarinacocha Ecological Reserve, the harvest of camu camu and local herbs has helped the community to not only have a new source of income but also to buy up, secure and protect native land and rainforest from development.

I recently learned that during one of his recent visits to the Amazon, Jean-Michel Cousteau, has taken an interest in the work done by the Amazon Herb Company. The products produced are 100% natural and very rich – containing ingredients unique to the Amazon Basin. If you would like more information on the products and the work of the Amazon Herb Company you can check their website at www. amazonherb.net

Long before it was trendy and fashionable, body tattoos and piercings were reserved for the heartiest of sailors. The tradition started back in the 1770’s, after Captain Cook’s first visits to Tahiti and New Zealand. Seeing the elaborate tattoos and piercings of the islanders his men were quick to emulate the custom. By the time Cook returned home after his first voyage, not only were his men covered with Polynesian tattoos, they had learned how to render their own designs into personal symbols and decoration. Even the prestigious Sir Joseph Banks returned home with a tattoo. From that contact the association of tattoos and sailors was born.

No, this is not to announce that the newest addition to the onboard spa services will be tattoo and body piercing (however, you never can tell!); I wanted to share with you the origin behind some popular nautical traditions including sailing around Cape Horn!

During the Age of Discovery men set out on the smallest of sailing ships with only a sketchy idea of what lay ahead. Having experienced bad seas myself, it amazes me that anyone ever survived those early voyages. Though the course became more predictable, the sea never did. Every trip, no matter how routine, became an adventure from which no one was certain to return.

One of the most perilous journeys was around Cape Horn. Until the opening of the Panama Canal this was the only way to pass from the Atlantic to the Pacific. Cape Horn is actually a small island, the southernmost in the Wolleston Island Group owned by Chile. It was named “Hoorn” in honor of the hometown and ship sailed by Dutch explorer Willem Schouten. However, not knowing the provenance of the name many associated the anglicized “Horn” with the Devil which made sense given the turbulent nature of the sea. Fear and superstition mounted as sailors reported tales of unbelievable hardship at sea. To prove their valor tattooing became the universal means of communicating how salty a seaman you were.

Just for fun, I’ve summarized some of the most popular and interesting. I am sure that many of you are qualified for several of them. Who knows? You just might get inspired!

• A sailor would get a swallow tattoo for every 5000 miles he had sailed because a swallow will always find its way home.
• Golden earrings were used as a means of ensuring they were buried properly should they die at sea or in a foreign port.
• The five pointed nautical star was the most popular symbol as it represented the North Star and celestial navigation.
• The pig and the rooster are tattooed on either the calves or the top of the feet, to prevent a sailor from drowning; these animals were originally carried on most ships in wooden crates. When a ship goes down these crates would float and then catch currents and wash ashore with the other debris from the ship, making the pigs and roosters often the only souls to survive a shipwreck. A tattoo of a pig on the left knee and a rooster (cock) on the right foot signified “Pig on the knee, safety at sea. A cock on the right, never lose a fight.”
• A turtle standing on its back legs symbolizes “shellbacks or those who have crossed the equator and have been indoctrinated into King Neptune’s court.
• An anchor usually noted that the sailor served in the Atlantic or was in the merchant marine.
• A dagger or a dagger through a rose signified a willingness to fight.
• Sailing around Cape Horn, men used a fully-rigged sailing ship and the words “homeward Bound” to guarantee safe passage.
• A black star on your left ear lobe showed you sailed around Cape Horn 1x; a black star on both lobes was for someone who had gone around 5x; and a red star on the forehead for anyone who sailed around 10x or more. It is said that he (or she!) who has such a tattoo will never have to buy a drink in a bar in Liverpool. Yahoo!

Many thanks to Linda Garrison, cruise critic for about.com. If you haven’t read her review (and all her other great cruise industry comments and tips) check it out! http://cruises.about.com/od/cruisereading/gr/alaska_guide.htm

I have never taken a cruise. I know it sounds crazy but I have never paid for a cruise and boarded as a passenger. However I am seriously thinking about changing that now that I found out Celebrity Cruises is offering a 4-day cruise from Seattle to Victoria, Nanaimo and Vancouver departing every Friday and Monday on the Mercury. The other day I saw a ship sail into Elliott Bay at about 6:00 am; I thought, “It’s too late in the season for there to be ships to Alaska – who is that?” I contacted the Port of Seattle and saw that it was the Mercury. I was so intrigued by not only the itinerary but the price (around $350 average for four days!) I am considering it myself! The ship sails through November; if you want a quick getaway this is perfect – the charm of Victoria, fall foliage in Nanaimo, and great museums, shopping and dining in Vancouver and Seattle. Why not?

Just imagine it’s your first time visiting the beautiful ports of Osaka, Shanghai, and Hong Kong. No doubt there are many things on your “must see” list; but what if you’ve been to these ports enough times to feel you have seen what you want to see and are now ready for an adventure? During my most recent visit I had just such an opportunity.

Days before we were to arrive in Osaka, Japan, Gudrun Werner, Cruise Consultant on the Seven Seas Mariner, received an invitation from one of our dearest former guests who lives in Kobe. She invited Gudrun and me, as well as a few other guests onboard for a day of things not offered on the typical tourist trail. She would take us to local shrines and temples followed by a visit to a real Japanese onsen or hot springs bathhouse followed by dinner. Not thinking about the “technicalities” posed by the bathhouse, we accepted with great enthusiasm and appreciation. Then Gudrun, being the practical German that she is, voiced what we were all thinking, “Do we need swimming suits? Towels? What should we bring?” To which our hostess replied – “Just bring your face cream!”

We were picked-up in a van rented just for the occasion. Driving about twenty minutes, we left Osaka for Kobe. I never realized it was so close. Though Kobe is a thriving city of 1.5 million people, its lush green surroundings make it seem more like a resort town. (I also found out Kobe is Seattle’s sister-city!) We stopped first at a very important Shinto shrine followed by a visit to a Buddhist temple. Located high on a hillside, visitors must climb a series of steep steps to the top where the view is spectacular. We were told that the huge brass bell standing before the main temple doors is rung by the priests to welcome in the new year. Visitors to the temple can also ring the same bell and make a wish that is guaranteed to come true – which, of course - we all did!

Next we stopped at the home of our hostess; located in a beautiful spot overlooking the city the house is made of cut white limestone. Inside, among her many collections were statues and figurines bought in cruise ports we recognized. Those who had never seen a high-tech Japanese toilet (see Terry Touts Toto Toilets www.cruiserfriendly.com/cruise_blog/general/terry-touts-toto-toilets/) were invited to peek in the guest washroom and take the burgundy model with a hand-held remote out for a test drive. After relaxing with a glass (or two) of champagne it was time for the onsen.

We drove up into the mountains, the lights of the city were starting to flicker far below. We were dropped off at a worn old wooden gate where a gravel path started toward a small lake. The only word to describe the feeling is, “serene.” Gnarly trees stretched out to form a canopy over the lake; candlelight reflected from small stone lanterns dotting the shore. As we continued up the path I could feel the ancient spirit of all those who walked the same path in quiet dignity toward the of ritual of the bath.

Leaving our shoes at the door we donned house slippers to walk on the fragile tatami floors. Shoji screens divided off the men’s from the women’s dressing rooms. Inside there were oak lockers for our belongings and peeled willow baskets for our clothes; all simple and natural. The only thing we were allowed to take into the bathing area was a thin cotton washcloth about the size of a small dishtowel – not enough to hide anything!

Through the sliding doors was the washing area; small partitions separated individual hand held showers. Seated on a very small pine stool I scrubbed down with a choice of soaps, exfoliants, and gels. Without appearing too noisy I noticed the locals were washing four or five times each; after which they would fold their washcloths and place them on their heads as they headed to the bath. When in Kobe – we did the same!

We were directed to the iron bath; the water was a rich reddish-brown and piping hot. It sapped every bit of self-consciousness from us – we were noodles! It was here that someone had the big idea of taking pictures! Nothing too incriminating that I couldn’t share.

Feeling very relaxed after our onsen experience, we dressed and made our way back down the hill to the restaurant. River-rock, polished smooth by years of wear covered the floors. The restaurant’s kimono clad hostess, graciously slid back the rice paper door on the room that had been prepared just for us. I don’t know if it was the room or the bath, but I was transformed by the feeling – austere, elegant and tranquil. (I read that traditional Japanese feel Western rooms are too busy making one feel nervous; they prefer visually quiet rooms to create quiet minds – I love it!) We left our shoes to enter; to accommodate Westerners the low table was standing in a pit allowing those who could not kneel to sit comfortably. Our meals started with sake and macha (prepared powdered green tea). We were instructed to unwrap the small, sweet buckwheat cake and place it on our tongues before drinking the macha; this symbolizes the bitter and sweet of life. And so the meal begins!

We were served fourteen courses of food; each consisting of small plates featuring one or two bites of an assortment of vegetarian delicacies ranging from salt encrusted gingko berries to a whole tempura fried fig. Our cameras were snapping away faster than our chopsticks. Each course was more beautiful and tasty than the next. At the end of the meal no one could agree which was their favorite; everything was so good.

Warmed by the sake and the afterglow of the iron water bath, we floated down the trail past the storybook lake with the lanterns. Crickets chirped in the bamboo. A crescent moon hung in the sky. Grateful beyond words for this day, were it not for the wonderful friendships made onboard ship, this unforgettable experience would never be mine. To our gracious hostess in Kobe – Domo Aregato.

If you want to know what I have not been up to - read this wonderful article by Rita Ippoliti in CruiseMates. Though it’s not exactly my words, it is very nice. Those of you who know me will spot the remarks that obviously are not mine. (For the record I have to say “Destination Specialist” was the title I gave myself for RSSC… HAL is not using that title. Over there they are using “Travel Guide” - but I think that may change soon.) But I can’t complain - it’s always nice to have someone write about you especially when they say you are younger than you are and you haven’t even bribed them!

ENRICHING THE CRUISE EXPERIENCE

By Rita Ippoliti

Holland America’s Terry Breen has dramatically new ideas for onboard enrichment.

A leading luxury cruise line executive once told me that cruisers cite “enrichment” as the one thing they want more of than anything else.

So, what is “enrichment” in cruise jargon? Typically, the word refers to a lecture or demonstration offered by an expert in any topic. The most common presentation relates to a topic of interest for the geographic itinerary of the cruise, such as an environmentalist in Alaska discussing the habitats of local species or an archaeologist in Egypt providing a chronological history of dynasties.

Or enrichment lectures can also be about other topics entirely, such as investment strategies or an in-depth examination of semi-precious stones. No matter what the topic, however, they should always be of interest to the people on that particular cruise.

Since enrichment has become more integral to the overall perception of the quality of the cruise line, it requires an “expert” to provide the “enrichment,” Therefore, finding the right experts to give the enrichment lectures requires an expertise of its own.

As of March 2007, the expert of expertise at Holland America is Terry Breen, a lady of 45 who honed her cruise enrichment skills speaking for 17 years as an Alaskan environmentalist aboard Regent Seven Seas cruise ships…http://www.cruisemates.com/articles/feature/HALTerryBreen-081707.cfm

The Bay of Campeche on Mexico’s Gulf Coast has never been a destination for tourists. The city of Veracruz located in the midst of the country’s petroleum rich lowlands is Mexico’s busiest port. With high temperatures and equally high humidity it is the quintessential steamy tropical port city. Consequently this part of the country has remained overlooked as tourists opt for places like the Yucatan Peninsula with its white sand beaches, turquoise blue waters and constant Gulf Stream breeze. From its inception in the 1970s when the Mexican government slated the area for major tourism development, the Yucatan has grown from sleepy fishing villages to international resort destinations like Cancun, Playa del Carmen and the Costa Maya. Today, many of these areas are overrun with as many as seven cruise ships in port on any one day. Always looking for new areas to expand the variety of ports on seven day Caribbean itineraries, the cruise industry along with the Mexican government, has developed a new port on the Gulf Coast. Puerto Chiapas is advertised as the gateway to the magnificent Maya ruins of Palenque. Normally considered one of the more “difficult” sites to visit because of its remote location, the existence of a port within easy driving distance of the site is exciting and frightening. Knowing that Palenque is one of the most beautiful Classic Maya city states it is exciting that more people will have the opportunity to see it and appreciate their great achievements. Frightening in that as has been the case in other Maya sites like Tulum and Chichen Itza, the wear and tear of millions of visitors has degraded and destabilized structures requiring them to be off limits to the public forever more. In addition to Palenque, I am not sure what other activities are offered during this port stop. The region of the country is still untouched and I am sure there are many natural areas of interest. It is hard to say how the increase in tourism will effect not only the site but the local economy; hopefully all those factors have been carefully considered with the opening of the port. Only time will tell. If any of you visit the area in the near future, I would sincerely be interested in hearing from you regarding your impressions. If you’d like to read more about what is being planned for Puerto Chiapas, link on the following link http://travel.latimes.com/articles/sns-trvrail2-wk2.