Last week a lady came up to me and expressed how “disgusted” she was with the commercialism of the towns in SE Alaska. She said, “I did not come to Alaska to go shopping for jewelry.” I asked if she had noticed any difference in Sitka as the community has fought for years to keep multi-nationals out in support of local business owners. She said, “I was so disappointed by Ketchikan, Juneau and Skagway I did not even get off the ship in Sitka.” It made me wonder how many other people feel the same way.

With that in mind I started to notice that many of the big name jewelry stores are actually leaving Alaska, or at least downsizing their operations. That could be a sign of hard economic times and the cost of luxury goods. Still there is a disproportionate number of jewelry stores in Ketchikan, Juneau and Skagway; that said there is also a growing number of locally owned and operated stores that are extolling the virtues of goods “Made in Alaska.” Signs in windows are popping up everywhere advertising “locally owned and operated.” More artisans are taking advantage of the Made in Alaska polar bear sticker that authenticates articles made by local Alaskans; as well as the Silver Hand sticker which is the symbol of Native Alaskan arts and handicrafts.

It is good to see the resurgence of local businesses and the preference of consumers asking for locally made goods. Local businesses have a vested interest in the community; they help keep the cost of doing business down which enables more local businesses to open and compete. It will be interesting to see what the retail landscape looks like next year.

Think about what it would be like if you were filling up your tank with 110 tons of fuel a day! Yup, that’s how much a 48 ton cruise ship carrying 700 guests consumes in one day at sea. On a seven day Alaskan itinerary with four port stops that translates to about $1 million dollars a month in fuel costs. Short of passing on those charges to the consumer in surcharges and taxes, what can be done if anything to keep ships afloat and people cruising?

I asked that question to senior deck and engine officers; the answers I received were very interesting. We all remember (well, most of us that is) the gas crisis of the 1970’s when the United States interstate speed limit was reduced to 55 mph. It drove many of us crazy having to inch along the freeway after years of flying by at break-neck speeds but the fact remains; reducing your speed by 20% saves up to 40% of fuel. Same is true for a cruise ship. Reducing the ship’s speed from 21 knots to 17 knots saves $200,000 off that $1 million dollar a month bill. Over one year that equals $2.4 million dollars saved; in a company with five ships that is $12 million dollars! Reducing the speed also means that not all three engines need to run; another cost saving as they can be rotated less frequently thereby extending the period in which they must undergo mandatory overhaul for maintenance.

To realize the savings available by reducing speed, itineraries must be better planned. As a consumer how might this affect your cruise? Answer: smarter, greener itineraries – that means shorter distances and courses set with rather than against strong currents. Developing marketable itineraries using reduced sailing speeds will require research and creativity but there are plenty of destinations and regions that could be cultivated – including right here in Alaska where places like Prince William Sound offer a myriad of attractions from small towns with deep water ports to beautiful shipboard scenery without days at sea pushing full speed. Another added bonus of shorter runs is reducing the chance for late arrivals that result in tour cancellations or missed flights.

If you enjoy cruising let your favorite cruise line know that you want to see these fuel savings measures put into place. Planning and pricing departments along with sales and marketing teams need to know that you are willing to explore new destinations and can adjust to changes in published itineraries if it means saving costs and saving the planet. This is a simply solution to a big problem but we need to hear from you.

When it comes to the carbon footprint of your vacation, is it “greener” to fly or to cruise? Anyway you look at it modern-day travel is “dirty business” whether you travel by car, plane, boat or train. Because cruise ships carry thousands of passengers and thousands of crew, divided out per person the carbon emission from a cruise ship is less than that of an airplane. Critics point out that most passengers fly to reach their cruise ship thereby combining both air and sea travel making the carbon footprint high; however, there are things the industry is trying to reduce its carbon emissions. Holland-America is in the process of introducing new “scrubbers” that will reduce carbon emissions from their ships – a very positive step in the right direction and the State of California requires that cruise ships burn diesel rather than heavy fuel within California state waters.

As more travelers become aware and concerned about the down line affect of their holiday choices, perhaps we will see the cruise industry put into effect the same conservation efforts found in major hotels i.e. linen changes upon request, reusing towels, and the addition of key card activated room lighting. One of the oldest jokes on a cruise ship is, “does the ship generate its own power?” Yes, of course it does; and as a self-contained power generating source most people on holiday feel no guilt in leaving on the television or the lights. However, to generate that energy the engines must run – which means more emissions and more fuel consumption. For those who love to cruise, maybe its time we tell the executives of our favorite lines that we can do without clean linens everyday and that we don’t mind being asked to turn off lights when not in use. If that will help keep the costs down and the industry going, I think everyone would be happy to comply.

Welcome to Nowhere, Alaska! Add that to all the colorful monikers for which the town of Ketchikan is known. After years of ridicule and harassment for the planned bridge that would link Ketchikan with isolated Gravina Island (aka “Nowhere”), the project has officially been scrapped, so said Ketchikan’s mayor Joe Williams, Jr.� West of Ketchikan, Gravina is a large, essentially uninhabited island; with the exception of some industry on the eastern shore and the world famous Ketchikan International Airport (only place in the world where the control tower is lower than the runway!) no one lives there. It is an open expanse of green trees and black bears. Yet today if you look over at Gravina Island, you will see heavy equipment cutting down trees and building roads. So, what’s going on? I asked Mr. Williams. � He said though the bridge will not be built, a new ferry system will go into service connecting the southeast portion of the island. He went on to point out that Ketchikan’s future lies on Gravina Island; the borough of Ketchikan located on Revillagigedo Island is hemmed in on the east by the Tongass National Forest and on the west by Tongass Narrows; the only direction the city can grow is north-south along the narrow strip of land parallel to the sea. Soon all the available land will be gone and the city will need to move west onto Gravina Island if it is ever to expand. Mr. Williams said the roads being built are for logging and will eventually include helicopter logging – good for Ketchikan’s lagging economy. Cynics in the capital city of Juneau have a different opinion about the roads and point to the fact that most of the land to which they will lead belong to influential Anchorage lawmakers who stand to gain the most from Ketchikan’s eventual population overflow. It was their urging that Congress approve the pork-barrel “Bridge to Nowhere” and it will be them not the residents of Ketchikan who will benefit the most. Hmmm… politics.

One of the biggest complaints by local officials in communities affected by cruise ships is that the whole proposition is an economic bust for the local economy. With the exception of paying port fees the presence of cruise ships generates very little revenue for local business. Passengers sleep onboard thereby avoiding a lodging bed-tax; most meals are taken onboard thereby avoiding food sales tax; and most shopping is done in stores that are only open seasonally and employee workers from outside the local community. All the while life is disrupted as the city or town is inundated with hundreds of thousands of people every day. Officials go on to cite that waterways and wilderness areas are adversely affected as well; increased marine traffic means more air, water and noise pollution with an increased chance of accident. Pristine parks and wilderness areas host a continuous parade of mega-ships belching smoke and non-stop chatter that echoes for miles. It’s no wonder locals in Southeast Alaska do not look forward to the cruise ship season.

Worldwide many areas are facing the same dilemma; well, Alaska has done something about it. A few years ago the city of Juneau was the first to restrict what ships could and could not do within the city limits including no broadcasts to the outside decks and use of no horns, whistles or bells. This was prompted by a call-in survey asking residents if cruise ships disrupt their daily routine and if so, how? Reaction of the community of 30,000 residents caused the restrictions to be put in place along with a $7 per person head tax to compensate for lost revenue. The new tax of $50 is to go to all communities that host cruise ships for the building and repair of dock facilities and other community related projects. (Please see USAToday article http://www.usatoday.com/travel/destinations/2006-08-31-tourist-taxes_x.htm)

Though this seems fair and equitable, I am confused. It is my understanding that most of the new docks in Alaska were built and are maintained at great cost by the cruise lines. If that is true, where is the money going? I have no doubt there are plenty of projects from which the communities could benefit; I think cruise ship guests paying this tax would feel better about helping the State of Alaska if they knew how their money was being spent. In my opinion, it could be very good for public relations for the state, the cruise industry and the travelling public to get this information out. What do you think?

For many the highlight of their cruise through Alaska’s Inside Passage is a visit to the pristine wilderness area of Tracy Arm. This glacially carved fjord winds its way past deep U-shaped valleys and dramatic granite cliffs to end dramatically at Sawyer Glacier. Over the past nineteen years that I have been on the bridge doing commentary through Tracy Arm, we rarely see another human soul. It is glorious and we do try to keep the chatter down so that the beauty can be appreciated. But now, due to a new program issued as a result of “a cooperative effort between vessel operators and the Tongass National Forest,” the new practices are meant to, “minimize the impact of tourism and vessel operations in the Tracy Arm-Fords Terror Wilderness in a manner that addresses both concerns for our natural resources and operators’ concerns for safety and passenger service.”

Under these practices to “Preserve Quiet” ships are prohibited from making any announcements before 8am. Announcements can only to be made in three designated areas not to exceed 5 minutes total. Longer explanations of the area will be allowed in Holkam Bay, before entering into the fjord. It is not clear whether or not this restrictions apply to the small locally operated tour boats that go to Sawyer Glacier – are they also included in these practices? Sound travels over water; regardless of whether you are 4,000 tons or 140,000 tons it will disturb anything on the shore.

Further “Environmental Precautions” to maintain clean air by minimizing visible emissions is a blessing. There have been more than one occasion that I have noticed the blue haze of a large ship’s emissions hours after it sailed through the fjord. Under “Protecting Wildlife,” every operator does his or her best to “conduct their business in a manner which, whenever possible avoids changing the natural behavior of wildlife,” however I think it will be hard to fully comply with some of the request regarding harbor seals. Under the Marine Mammal Protection Act, harbor seals are protected and every cruise ship knows that. Under this new set of procedures “operators agree to remain a minimum of 100 yards from seals on icebergs whenever possible” and “agree to reduce speed when approaching hauled out seals, and to gradually increase speed when leaving their site in order to reduce wake.” That is common sense; however many wonder what penalties will be faced when the inevitable happens – seals haul out onto to the ice in front of or next to the ship without warning. Will we be in violation? And who will be monitoring compliance?

All that said, I can understand wanting to set rules for conduct – I have seen things in Tracy Arm that warrant tighter measures and I applaud the environmental community for getting this out there. However, what doesn’t sit well with me is the final exhibit in this document that says; “ 1.) … Holkam Bay is a good place to introduce Tracy Arm. Since the waterway is wide, announcements would not impact campers, kayakers, fisherman on shore, beach walkers, hunters and other users of the wilderness area.” As a passenger on a cruise ship, are you not also a user of the wilderness area? Though I am all for peace and quiet, I also think that as the majority of cruise ship guests in Alaska are US tax paying citizen, they too have rights to use and enjoy their wilderness as well. I am not saying that we as an industry should not uphold these practices – I believe we should. I take offense to what seems to be preference given to the rights of a handful of kayakers and hunters over thousands of guests on a cruise ship.

Starting tomorrow morning, I will begin to abide by these new Practices and I hope that they will start to set a new more reverential tone for our visit to Tracy Arm. And I hope that in the future when decisions such as these that regulatory bodies will seek more input from more input from the cruise industry on how to make calls on places like Tracy Arm memorable for everyone lucky enough to visit.

There currently are several openings for experienced speakers who can address a variety of topics on the Caribbean and the Panama Canal. Must be able to commit to an onboard contract lasting three to four months. Compensation dependent on qualifications. I am NOT the one hiring, however I would be happy to forward your resume or CV to the agency in the UK that is. Good luck!

There is so much written about the great state of Alaska it’s hard to narrow down a reading list; but for the first time visitor arriving by cruise ship I find the following books provide basic information to stimulate your interest and appreciation.

From the ship:

“Cruiser Friendly Onboard Guide to Alaska’s Inside Passage,” by Terry Breen. Complitaion of my seventeen years of onboard experience answering what YOU want to know about Alaska as we sail the Inside Passage.

“Alaska Cruise Companion,” by Joe Upton. In depth look at the Inside Passage through the eyes of an experienced fisherman; Joe’s cruise map is excellent!

Alaska History:

“Alaska,” by James Michener. Great read and, as always, well researched.

“Klondike – The Last Great Gold Rush 1896-1898,” by Pierre Berton. Mr. Berton has written many books on the history of Alaska – all worth picking up!

“The Alaska Almanac,” by Mr. Whitekeys. This fact-filled, fun book is a wonderful whacky resource for understanding Alaska. Written in the true spirit of the state!

“Arctic National Wildlife Refuge: Seasons of the Land,” by Subhanken Banerjee. Timely book as we face the dilemma of high gas prices!

Natural History;

“Travels in Alaska,” by John Muir. Can’t get a better feeling for the wilderness than through the eyes of the father of US conservation efforts.

“Roadside Geology of Alaska,” by Cathy Connor.� For those interested in the make-up of the landscape this is your book.

“The Oceanic Society Field Guide to Orcas” and “Humpback whales,” by Hannah Bernard and Michele Morris. When you are in port be sure to pick up these two books for insights into the world of Alaska’s cetaceans.

“Exploring Alaska’s Birds” by Richard Emanuel and George Matz. So many birds, so little time – this book will help!

“Alaska’s Mammals; A Guide to Selected Species,” by Dave Smith

Native Alaska:

“The Native Peoples of Alaska,” by David Langdon.� Great introduction to Alaska’s four main Native cultural groups.

“The Tlingit History,” by George Thornton Emmons.

“Tlingit: Their Art and Culture,” by David Hancock.

“Looking at Indian Art of the Northwest Coast,” by Hillary Stewart. Primer for those interested in the exquisite art of the Northwest Coast people.

“Northwest Coast Art: Analysis of Form,” by Bill Holm. Great book to help you decipher the Native art of the Inside Passage.

First of all – right out of the gate before you start to pack that evening dress or tuxedo – check with your travel agent or cruise line to see if your ship has a Dress Code for your Alaskan cruise! In the spirit of The Last Frontier, many cruise lines have relaxed dress codes in Alaska. If that pertains to you, evening clothes traditionally warranted on a cruise ship will not be necessary. Instead, the look of “Country Club Casual” will be the norm after 6pm in all public areas; which usually means sport coats for men (no tie – yippee!) and sweater and slacks or a skirt for ladies. Please note; jeans and t-shirts after 6pm are still considered a no-no by many ships.

Now, with the fashion end of clothing aside, what should be in your suitcase?� I say:

1. Good walking shoes. You don’t need hiking boots (unless you intend to do some serious hiking – there are places where that is possible in case you are interested.)� Bring comfortable shoes that will allow for wet surfaces (rainy decks and city sidewalks) and long periods of standing (lots to see from the rails of the ship!). Be sure to wear your new cruise shoes before coming onboard to break them in – nothing worse than blisters from new shoes and your cruise!
2. Layered clothing. The old saying in Alaska is if you don’t like the weather wait a few minutes and it will change. Be prepared. It doesn’t have to be fancy but a seasoned traveler to Alaska always has extra socks, a light water-proof/wind-proof jacket or poncho, a hat and a sweater or sweatshirt. I always wear my light-weight down jacket; it is water-proof and warm when it is cold; cool when it is warm. � Standing out on deck watching whales or glaciers – it can get nippy! But remember, it does get warm in Alaska during the summer as well; so layers help you regulate your temperature as well as withstand the elements.
3. Insect repellant? I have to say, I am a mosquito magnet – but unless I am going hiking in deep woods, I do not bring insect repellant with me. That said, if you are going off on trails – do take along some DEET . Mosquitos in Southeast are heaviest in June. Make sure you spray your clothes as well as exposed skin – and don’t forget the top of your head and ears!
4. Binoculars. You will great satisfaction from your cruise by having a good pair of binoculars. They do not need to be super-duper, just good enough for you to see what you want to see. If you are not experienced using binoculars – PRACTICE! Nothing is worse than missing a great moment because you can’t figure out how to use the binoculars (and believe me I have seen it!).
5. Camera. There will be many “Kodak moments” on your Alaska cruise and I am sure you will want to capture them all from eagles in the trees to sunsets at midnight! My only request is once in a while put the camera down; take a minute to record the moment for yourself, in your heart. Breathe. Memories are made of this.

With higher fuel prices, the travel industry fears that the summer of 2008 will be one in which travel plans are curtailed or postponed. The American Automobile Association has cited changing patterns in US driving habits due to higher gas prices. Yesterday all the major US air carriers added a $20 fuel surcharge to their fares. � Yours truly had to cancel a long-awaited holiday to France due to the falling dollar and rising cost of accommodations and food prices in Europe. So, what to do? Stay home?

Well it seems there still are bargains to be found and they are package tours and cruising. Like package tours, cruises are booked and paid for in advance. Many offer all inclusive programs and all advertised prices are guaranteed. Even if the cost of food or fuel goes up; you as the traveler will not be affected. Like the airlines many cruise lines have added fuel surcharges to their fares but those monies are collected at the time of booking. That means no surprises when you get onboard. So, you can relax and enjoy knowing your budget is in tact.