It all started innocently enough; I was to be the Study Leader for a group of 37 through the Panama Canal from New York to Los Angeles. The group of Road Scholars consisted of a wonderful multi-generational mix of travelers interested in learning. Love it! Everything was according to plan until little white swirls started to appear on the images taken by weather satellites high over the coast of Florida. As those swirls grew progressively larger the media had already dubbed it, “Frankenstorm!”

Coming up from Montevideo to New York was a twenty-seven hour flight. Like thousands of others I got delayed and rerouted avoiding the NYC area entirely.I was lucky I eventually flew to Charleston where the ship - Crystal Symphony - was now waiting. My fellow Road Scholars were not so lucky; many had already flown into New York and were stuck. The ship could not enter New York Harbor so it was directed to go to Charleston from Boston.The group in New York had to charter a bus and drive to Charleston. When they finally arrived I was waiting to greet them at the entrance of the Mills House; after flying 27 hours I was hoping for an early night - but as they trudged past me I could see that is exactly what they wanted as well! Miraculously everyone arrived in relatively good humor thanks in a large part to the buoyant spirit of Group Leader Valerie Hershfield.

The next day we boarded the Crystal Symphony along with all the other passengers who had been rerouted. I had the pleasure of touring the Symphony in Alaska last year during a book signing; I was impressed then and was again once back onboard. Cruising as a guest was an unexpected delight. I now can understand why people like this whole thing - it was pretty nice!

I gave one or two talks every sea day in addition to the host of formal lectures by other enrichment speakers onboard. Having never worked with Road Scholar before I was impressed by the interest level of the group which was multi-generational. Road Scholar - aka Elderhostel - is reaching beyond its prveious demographic to attract younger travelers with an ardent interest in travel as an educational experience. I think many were disappointed in the cruise aspect of the trip - not that the ship wasn’t exceptional - but the many independent options available onboard seemed to dilute some of the cohesiveness created on other trips. Nevertheless we had a great transit through the Canal which was the focus of the program.

Dining together as a group I had a chance to learn more about everyone and Road Scholar. Many within the group have taken upwards of 70 trips. Due to the educational aspect of the organization Road Scholar programs include some very interesting, non-traditional destinations like Cuba! I was fascinated to hear about week long trips that focused on a stately home or an art exhibit. Programs include land-based trips as well as cruises on large and small ships. For more information contact: www.roadscholar.org

It was my 77x through the Canal but who is counting, right? As I say, every time through I see something new and this time was no exception. First off, one of our guests, Peggy Nathan, allowed me to read a diary she brought onboard from her grandparents who went on a cruise to Panama in 1913. This was one year, seven months before the canal was complete. Not only was the diary delightful to read there are old photographs of the family visiting the canal by train as it was still under construction. Now that is cool. I hope to use some of the excerpts from the diary in the upcoming Panama Canal book. Thanks Peggy!

Progress continues on the Third Set of locks that will increase the number and size of ships that can transit the Canal. Currently upon entering into Gatun Lake from the Atlantic side you can see the third lock chambers under construction. Look for the huge blue tin roof which covers the construction area.

All that was very interesting but that was not the something new I had seen. What was new on this trip? The water. Normally the water that fills the lake and fuels the locks is clear and clean. This time through it was opaque and brownish-red. The water that lapped along the shoreline in the Gallaird Cut looked like the Amazon. What was going on? In the entire history of the Canal it has only been closed three times; once due to a landslide, once in response to a military threat and most recently, December 10, 2010, it was closed due to too much rain! So much rain fell in such a short amount of time it was felt the locks could not operate properly so as a precautionary measure the Canal ceased operation for 24 hours. Almost a month later the lake water was still showing signs of the muddy run-off. Just another reminder Mother Nature is always in charge.

There currently are several openings for experienced speakers who can address a variety of topics on the Caribbean and the Panama Canal. Must be able to commit to an onboard contract lasting three to four months. Compensation dependent on qualifications. I am NOT the one hiring, however I would be happy to forward your resume or CV to the agency in the UK that is. Good luck!

On January 9, 2008, I sailed through the Panama Canal for the seventieth time! Later that day we anchored off the island of Flamingo within view of the city of Panama. The amount of growth that has taken place over the past year is phenomenal – new hotels, skyscrapers, bank buildings and a residential complex by none other than Donald Trump – a sign things really must be looking up economically for the country! Many US citizens are seeing Panama as the next Costa Rica not only for tourism and environmentally oriented experiences but also for investment and retirement. With an economy still closely tied to the US, where the local currency is used interchangeably with the US dollar, the face of Panama looks much different.

The entire ship was invited to a welcome cocktail hosted at the new Panama Canal Authority Visitor’s Center in Miraflores Locks. Though I have sailed through the Canal many times I have never had the chance to see the new center which opened a few years ago. Initially I was very critical of its location being so close to the first set of locks in Miraflores however precautions were taken to screen everyone entering the facility. The Visitors Center is beautifully designed; in addition to a film there are interpretative displays that take you floor by floor through the importance of the Canal from its historic building to environmental resources and finally the new Third Locks Project. Like the bottom floor, the upper terrace on top is open for viewing of the Canal. Guests were delighted by not only the facility but also the music and sampling of local food provided by the Center’s Executive Chef Hannibal Achiari.

The following day guests were free to explore Panama City. My mission was twofold; to buy a fresh pod of cacao and visit the Ministry of Tourism. The wild goose chase through the city in search of the cacao pod proved fruitless – excuse the pun – however the drive gave me a chance to see areas of the city few tourists would ever see. I was charmed by small neighborhoods green with gardens and flowers; and surprised by the number of upscale shopping malls and US chain restaurants. I could not help but feel the urgency to invest in Panama before it was too late.

The purpose of my meeting with the Ministry was to gain support for my book on the Panama Canal. It its final stages, I want it read and edited by the Panama Canal Authority and the Ministry with the ultimate goal of having an endorsement and forward by the Minister himself – the Honorable Rubén Blades. All that is underway and I am more excited than I can express. Given there are several books out on cruising in Alaska (though none have my unique personal perspective and advantage) there are no such similar books about the Panama Canal. Mine will be the first! I am looking forward to not only providing highlights of the ship’s transit but also sparking interest in future visits to explore travel opportunities within the country.