There once was a time when only the most fearless and intrepid sailors braved the dreaded waters of Cape Horn. They marked their passage with tattoos and gold earrings. Today, dozens of cruise ships, “Round The Horn” though it still takes a certain someone to book the trip. Ships may be more stable but the sea is still as unpredictable as ever in this area of oceanic convergence. If you made the crossing yourself, then perhaps you sailed around The Horn with me on one of my 35 trips. As this is a note worthy number, Captain Philippe Fichet Delavault nominated me for admission into the Société Cap Hornier – an organization of captains who successfully sailed around Cape Horn. Originally started in Captain Delavault’s home city of San Malo, the organization is now headquartered in Valparaiso, Chile. For consideration into the Société, Captain Delavault had to document from the ship’s log the eight times I have sailed around The Horn on the Mariner. After review by the Société’s committee, I was granted admission as the first Sister of the Brotherhood of Cap Horniers. Pretty cool, eh?

The biggest party in the world is Rio de Janeiro’s celebration of Carnaval. People from all over flock to the city to watch the magnificent parades of the competing samba schools. Getting a berth for a cruise ship is almost as difficult as getting a hotel room. Though the Seven Seas Mariner arrived late for the actual pre-Lenten celebration we were just in time for the Winner’s Parade. On Ash Wednesday, the winners of the coveted competition were announced; for the fifth time in six years Bejia Flor won first place. The next day, the top five schools performed to a sold out crowd in the world famous Sambadromo. Tickets for seats were going from $100 to stand in the bleachers to $1000 for a VIP box.

Lucky me – I was invited to see the parade from ring side seats – Sector 11, Frisa 5. For those thinking about attending next year, I highly recommend this location which was open and spacious with a great view. I was close enough to catch various bits of costume that were tossed into the crowds. (The lucky people in the front row were actually given headdresses and feathered capes!) The entire Sambadromo which holds 60,000 people was packed. There were plenty of well-identifiable personnel to help direct and lots of police to discourage petty theft. Though there were throngs of people it felt very relaxed and safe.

Well, as relaxed as you can be with the driving drums of the batteria causing even the most non- rhythmic gringo feet to start tapping. Everyone was singing. Everyone was dancing. The costumes of the samba schools were fantastic and the floats were mind-boggling; women danced on 40’ tall white horses, a pyramid of people created a crystal chandelier, a doll house was filled with transvestites – it kept getting bigger and better with each school. I regret that I had to leave at 1am; but some of my fellow guests watched the whole thing which ended at sunrise. Bravo!

If you have ever dreamed of going to Rio for Carnaval, make sure that you book your seats in advance. All the samba schools compete throughout the weekend through to Fat Tuesday; finalist perform one last show in the Winner’s Parade on Thursday. But don’t forget that located not too far from the cruise ship terminal in Port Maura is the new Cidade de Samba which is now open to the public where you can see floats being made and learn more about the history of samba and Rio’s winning samba schools.

More and more people are venturing off to visit The White Continent of Antarctica. Cruise ship departures from Ushuaia, Argentina are at an all time high giving rise to massive renovation and investment in the town’s infrastructure. But after the incident last November involving the expeditionary ship the Explorer; environmentalists are questioning how wise it is to have so many commercial ships in an area that is so fragile and potentially dangerous. In response, Lan Chile airlines offers an over flight. Departing from Punta Arenas, Chile, the 6 hour tour allows passengers onboard the AB300 to glimpse a little of Antarctica – weather permitting.

Every once in a while, this job has its benefits and most gratefully, I was allowed to accompany our group as an escort. Prior to departure a naturalist gave a very well delivered overview on Antarctica and its fauna. We were then taken to the airport where guests from the Seven Seas Mariner joined guests from the Holland-America ship the Prinsendam. As is the case with every flight, we did not know until arrival to the airport whether or not weather conditions would allow us to fly. However, luck was on our side and we took off. Once airborne everyone was given a menu of our in-flight service which started off with Pisco Sours. The mood onboard was jovial; everyone had a window seat and no one was seated over the wing except – the escorts – who did not complain.

Once crossing the Drake Passage we flew over Cape Horn and on toward the Weddell Sea. Down through the clouds huge tabular ice bergs started to appear as we neared the Weddell Peninsula. Weather was good so we the pilot took the plane down through the clouds. We passed over a Chilean research station and then banked across Danger Island. In the distance I could see the arc of the peninsula and couldn’t help thinking of Ernest Shackelton and his men who were marooned on Elephant Island just to the north. We passed low over Paulet Island, low enough to see huge rookeries of Adele penguins. On our return I asked the pilot just how low we were flying and he said at the lowest point we were about 1,000’ above the island – pretty impressive!

Just as we were getting ready to make a course change toward another island the notoriously unpredictable Antarctic weather moved in. Within minutes we were surrounded in clouds and wind. The pilot climbed to clear skies. Our total time viewing time was a little over an hour.

The flight was exhilarating; the pilot was excellent. The service onboard was ample and gracious. The plane was reconfigured for maximum viewing comfort. But was it worth it? I guess it depends on how much $1,700 represents to you. Though I am among those who are concerned about the impact of cruise ships in Antarctic waters, nothing beats being there – the immense, incomprehensible size of the ice; the color; and the stillness. Were I to choose I would have to say that I would rather save my money and apply the $1,700 toward an Antarctic cruise but if this were my only chance to see The Great White Continent – then yes definitely – if you can afford it – go!

Executive Chef Mike Römhild is constantly striving to bring the taste and flavor of the local destination onboard the Seven Seas Mariner. As part of this goal Mike has been researching recipes to create a signature Destination Dish each day reflecting the culinary delights of the upcoming port. Aiding and abetting Mike in his plans, I have been enlisted to help with the selection of menu items and – and – the procurement of ingredients. Normally the ship’s Provisions Master is responsible for filling the Chef’s shopping list; but when it comes to specialty items – sometimes you need to bring in an expert. That’s where I come in!

Yesterday the ship was in Manta, Ecuador; a place where years ago I discovered a wonderful secret salsa. Sailing on the Royal Princess my friend Pam Austin and I were looking for somewhere to eat in this very industrial fishing town. We were told to try the Manta Yacht Club. We must have walked past the place three times because no where did it look like there was a “yacht club.” Finally someone said that we standing in front of it! We knocked. In the middle of the large wooden gate a small door slid open just big enough for a face to appear. “What do you want?” I felt like saying, “Joe sent us,” but instead explained we were from the ship, someone had directed us there and we wanted to eat. We showed the disembodied face our ID and he must have thought us harmless as we were admitted – but only for lunch! Our meal was wonderful; served on an open terrace we had fresh fish, cold beer and the most delicious salsa either of us had ever had. I asked how it was made; the basic ingredient was a special chile that looked like a small pumpkin but the secret was – yellow mustard! Though we took some back and tried in vain to replicate the recipe we never made anything like our “Manta Picante.”

Knowing this secret sauce exists, I told Mike. Intrigued he wanted me to get some. Fine – no problem – how much? He said, “About two gallons!” When I showed up yesterday asking in the small kitchen for two gallons of salsa you can imagine the look on their faces. I told them money was no object as I realized making me this amount of salsa would probably preclude them from doing anything else all morning. Later that afternoon I picked up the containers containing the freshest, most tasty and fragrant salsa you can imagine. The price tag: $18. As the Destination Dish for the evening our Manta Picante was the perfect accent to Ecuadorian potato soup with cheese and grilled fish fillet. For guests who may not be nervy enough to eat ashore, we were successful in really bringing an authentic taste onboard. Contact me if you’d like the recipe.