This South America season the Seabourn Sojourn is cruising between Valparaiso, Chile and Buenos Aires, Argentina. Through the Chilean fjords and around Cape Horn, this is one of the most popular segments of a South American cruise; and for that reason they are going to be repeating it for the entire two and a half month season.

When the Sojourn came through Montevideo, guests and crew came-up to see my new apartment. They had just come from Port Stanley in The Falklands, where they had a glorious day and saw king penguins, etc. The next day the cruise was to end in Buenos Aires. Some of you may know that Argentina has been raising concerns again about the sovereignty of The Falklands and has been threatening to not allow cruise ships into Argentina that have been to The Falklands. My friends said they did not know what impact if any their visit would have.

After the next cruise began in Buenos Aires, the Soujourn stopped in Montevideo where again I had lunch with the same friends. It seems the Argentines were not happy that the ship had gone to the The Falklands and told them they would be unwelcome in the country were they to do it again. Well, as it is part of their published itinerary - they did. As luck would have it weather was bad and they could not get in to port; nevertheless they had committed themselves in the attempt.

The next stop was to be Ushuaia, Argentina. They were informed they were not welcome and were being labeled a “pirate ship.” The ship went on to Chile where extra time was added in Puerto Montt. No final decision has been made regarding how to handle the rest of the season.

Seabourn is not the only cruise line affected by Argentina’s actions; Holland-America, Princess, Oceania, and Regent have similar itineraries. They have only two choices; eliminate the call in The Falklands or avoid all Argentine ports. Avoiding all Argentine ports includes Buenos Aires which is not only a major draw for guests but is also the turn-around port where cruises begin and end. Without Buenos Aires additional arrangements must be made to fly passengers in and out of nearby Montevideo - that could be costly. Eliminating The Falklands is much easier but takes away the much relied upon revenue from the seasonal cruise ship visits.

For a good look at the down line affect on the community please click on the link.

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/cruises/cruise-news/9741833/Cruise-ship-row-strangling-Falkland-Islands.html

Antarctica truly is the last frontier. The lure of the White Continent has called to explorers and adventurers; whalers and furriers; scientists and conservationists.

During the past thirty years tourists have also ventured beyond the notorious Drake Passage to explore Antarctica with its smoldering volcanic beaches, islands filled with squawking penguins and magnificent blue tabular icebergs. Most of those tourists arrived by ship. Due to the increase in ships of various size and shape, and the environmental threat they pose, in 2011 the Antarctica Treaty Organization started to regulate tourism by prohibiting in Antarctic waters any ship that burns “heavy fuel.” (See my blogs of 2010-07-30 No more big ships in Antarctica after August 2011 and 2010-02-20 Antarctica tightens restrictions on cruise ships.)

The new regulation excluded all but small, expeditionary-type vessels and larger ships that can burn lighter, cleaner fuel. In response to the demand for Antarctic itineraries Crystal Symphony will be returning to Antarctica in 2013/2014, as will Azamara Quest, Holland America’s Prinsendam, Princess’s Star Princess, and last but not least, the Seabourn Quest will make its inaugural cruise. Though most of the larger ships will do only “scenic sailing” (no landings allowed for ship carrying over 400 passengers) Crystal does advertise that it includes “a boots on the ground experience” which looks to be a flight and landing.

While onboard the Crystal Symphony I had the opportunity to ask Captain Egil Giske how the Symphony will comply with the new environmental regulations. He explained that the new Antarctic requirements are exactly the same as those imposed upon ships in the State of California. I had a chance to look into those requirements and it looks like the switch to a lighter, cleaner, more eco-friendly fuel requires no alteration to the engine department however it is more expensive. According to the number of ships back in the market looks like the cost of the expense can be off-set by the demand for the destination.

I have not heard of any immediate plans for Regent’s return to Antarctica but all I can is, I’m ready!

Okay, I know that many of you are anxious to know how everything is here in Montevideo. Well, first of all, my apartment which is in an old building in the Old City - Ciudad Vieja - is still not completely complete. It is liveable and I am here. Details to follow.

This area is going through a lot of changes. Since I was last here there are very chic stores including La Opera, from Buenos Aires, right here on the corner of the pedestrian street Sarandi. More cafes. Some very exclusive looking little restaurants and a new “W-style” hotel on my street corner. My neighbor, Andres, is a terrific young man who has invested a considerable amount of money in restoring his place. We are just the two of us on the upper floor. He did what I would have liked to have done - restoring everything. But then he has had the time and money; me not so much.

One thing that we both needed new was a roof. As inspections are not required here nor does the owner need to disclose anything about the condition of the place, neither Andres nor I were aware that all our investment would be for not if we didn’t get a new roof on fast. So we did. Amazingly, it was completed two days before what is being called The Storm of The Century; hurricane force winds and terrible rain. Our new roof held but as I was not here for the weeks that followed, all the moisture that would normally escape through the roof is now coming through the walls. As a result all my new plaster is blistered and I have outbreaks of mold. Nothing that can’t be fixed but it needs to be dried out — big time. Paper becomes soggy. My clothes feel like damp rags. My hair looks like a poodle. I am buying a dehumidifier which should help and soon it will be summer.

My kitchen is really cute. My dear friends Shirley and Jorge did an incredible job sourcing the tiles and granite. I would not give any awards to the kitchen “designer” - I have never seen a kitchen where you cannot stand in front of the sink and have to move the stove to get to cabinets - but considering what it looked like before - no complaints.

Last February, Elda Pauluzzi and I bought the appliances. It would have been nice if the “designer” would have taken their size into consideration but again, no complaints. The one thing I was so excited about was an Italian washer/dryer combo - came in at almost $900. I was assured it was installed and worked. Yesterday I gave it a test run — oh boy! I don’t know where the drainage hose goes but I do know it ends up on the other side of the kitchen on the floor. The place was flooded. Then the machine began spin cycle — because this thing uses centrifugal force to dry - it is really, really powerful. It started to bash the counter which started to crack. Then it walked out like Robby the Robot and hit the stove. Scratched the new hardwood floors before unplugging itself. Because the machine was still filled with water I had to hold it through four spin cycles before it drained into a bucket! Mama mia! I pushed it back into the counter and continued the dry cycle which was quiet and uneventful — and very dry. Think this puppy is going to have to find a new home.

I have an incredible new bathroom. My cute little bathtub is perfect for me. I adore having individual water heaters for HOT water on demand. The bathroom’s upper surfaces are not fixed yet - again waiting the drier conditions.

Old buildings are like children, they need constant attention. I am afraid that as I will soon be leaving again the apartment will digress without someone here staying on top of all the little issues. I cannot yet do a final painting nor can I buy furniture until everything is dry. Shirley and Jorge left me a few things to use for the time being; it doesn’t look as beautiful as I had been dreaming about - but it’s okay.

Good news is that property values are going through the roof - so anyone looking to buy here or along the beach - now would be the time!

More later.

On September 18th, I was invited by Karl Storch, of Sun Tours, Albuquerque to do an introduction to Alaska for one hundred of his clients interested in the destination. The event held a the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center was co-hosted by Oceania Cruises.

Sun Tours offers a selection of cruise departures in 2013, including one on Regatta to Alaska, July 12 - 22.

I was told about Karl and Sun Tours by Regent guests who were on with me last year in South America. As a local Albuquerque company I was anxious to meet Karl and Linda (who is charge of all the cruises.) After learning more about their programs I was so impressed I was ready to sign-up especially for a Mystery Tour. That’s right - a Mystery Tour! You sign-up not knowing where you are going nor what you will do; you only know the travel dates and price — the rest is left up to faith and Karl! According to the people in attendance at the presentation, these are Sun Tours’ most popular offerings!

Next time you are up for an adventure, check ‘em out: http://www.suntoursus.com

The following article by Harry Shattuck appeared in the Houston Chronicle.

“Carnival has become the latest cruise line to try out an all-you-can-drink package, with a trial run of its “My Awesome Bar Program,” on its Victory ship.

The world’s largest cruise company is offering passengers the option of purchasing unlimited access to wine, beer, spirits, as well as sodas and non-alcoholic frozen cocktails for $42.95 per person per day, plus an automatic 15 percent gratuity of $6.44, according to USATODAY.com. The package can be used to buy all wines and cocktails priced at $10 and lower. Full bottles of wine and champagne, as well as any glasses of wine over $10, are available for a 25 percent discount, the website reported.

To prevent two people in the same cabin from trying to share a package, the cruise line is requiring that anyone 21 years or older in the same berth to each purchase the option

The decision follows other cruise lines, including Royal Caribbean, Celebrity and Oceania, that offer similar types of unlimited beverage packages, according to cruisecritic.com.

Carnival spokesman Vance Gulliksen told cruisecritic.com that the trial has been ongoing since Victory’s Aug. 5 departure from Miami, Fla. He cited convenience and value as the reasons behind the move.

Whether the cruise line extends the package to its other 23 ships remains to be seen. Some online commenters questioned the move, saying it may encourage more drunkenness on cruises.

The cruise line sails the Carnival Triumph from its departure port in Galveston.”

It’s always like this in Alaska - isn’t it?

Well, like any classy lady, you never want it to be obvious that you have had some “work done.” Well, so it is with the Navigator.

The Seven Seas Navigator went into dry-dock in North Vancouver on June 12th and returned into service on June 30th. I have been on this ship since she first came out in 1999, and I have to say, when I returned I could not see what had been done. Before leaving I was told that everything was going to be new from carpeting to wall coverings, etc. So I was excited to see the make-over. Maybe I watch too much HGTV when I am home, because I was ready for this big dramatic “reveal”. Did not happen.

That is not to say that work was not done - it was. Most of the dry-dock experience was below decks. One of the biggest jobs was the removal of the old ballast which was replaced with a solid material. If you come onboard and see these silvery, black blobs on people’s desks that look like a something from a sci-fi film, these are the original pieces of ballast. Franck Galzy, General Manager, gifted all the department heads with their own little piece of the ship!

Like most of you, I was more concerned with the things above decks - new restaurants, cosmetic changes, etc. The most noticeable change is the expansion of Prime 7 and the conversion of La Verandah’s evening offering to what is being called, Sette Mari. Prime 7 looks the same but can now accommodate double the capacity. Sette Mari is an Italian themed restaurant where soup, specialty pastas, main course items and dessert are ordered from the menu. Upon being seated you are served a glass of sparkling Prosecco, a plate of antipasti and various appetizers. It has been so popular I have only been able to sneak in once in the last month.

As for the cosmetic changes, the big surprise is there are none! As promised the carpets were replaced and the wall coverings were refinished, etc. but all with exactly the same thing! As I said, you’d never know she had any work done! I have not seen for myself but I have been told the Master Suites were all redecorated and look great. So, that’s the story on dry-dock!

The cooperative feeding behavior known as bubble-netting is a once-in-a-lifetine thing to see. It doesn’t happen all the time; in fact, marine biologists say that the humpbacks participate in this kind of feeding only a few weeks in the year.

Exactly what is bubble-netting? As a baleen whale humpbacks are filter feeders, so to eat they scoop up thousands of gallons of water in their mouths and strain it through their baleen which acts as a sieve. Humpbacks only feed in the summer so they must eat a lot to bulk up for the rest of the year. When they come upon a school of small fish like herring, they will communicate with one another to surround the herring with a fine net of exhaled bubbles. The herring concentrate toward the center. The whales then, on cue, come up at once with their mouths open scooping up all the fish. They slip back down only to reset their bubble-net and do it again.

Last Saturday in Juneau I was lucky enough to go out on the Evening Whale Watch from Auke Bay where we saw a pod of 14 whales bubble-net feeding. Not only is this rare, seeing a pod of so many members working cooperatively is even more rare. So as they just started, if you are coming up in the next few weeks I would definitely book one of the whale watch programs in Juneau! Photo credit: Peggy Hutchings

Starting May 12, the Seven Seas Navigator will be going into to dry-dock for extensive re-modeling. The ship will be out-of-service until May 30, at which time the regular 7-day Alaska cruises resume.

Though I do not have all the details I do know that preparations are being made for the following:

New Carpeting throughout.
New wall and window treatments in select areas.
Major face-lift for all the suites.
Improvements to the Seven Seas Show Lounge.
Enlargement of Prime 7.
Re-modeling of La Veranda including installation of new menu dinner service.
Remodeling of Pool deck including new decking.
New steam and sauna in Spa.

I can hardly wait to see how it all comes out. As soon as the ship is back in service I will take pictures for all to see.

Upon disembarking the Seven Seas Mariner I was invited to stay an extra day in South Florida. The visit started off poorly as the driver that picked me up dropped me off at the wrong hotel necessitating taxi rides to several other similarly named hotels to finally find my reservation. Not to worry; the place was great located within the tree lined-streets of trendy new Brickell Village. Downtown Miami is a far cry from the place I avoided when I lived in Miami twenty years ago. It is a clean and vibrant urban oasis filled with cafes and bistros frequented by local residents and foreign travelers.

The next morning I headed for the Port to Miami; leaving Brickell Village I was impressed by the parade of health-conscious joggers and downtown dog-walkers. The Port of Miami is under going a major transformation. Though there were seven big ships in port, traffic flow has been streamlined to and from the terminals minimizing congestion. Nice to know as soon Regent will be calling Miami home as well!

I was to meet people on the Marina but as usual, I was early. I used the extra time to explore the ship. I had heard she was beautiful but nothing could have prepared me for the extent to which this ship has been appointed. Last summer I went aboard the Crystal Symphony which impressed me with its spaciousness and class - I could not take my eyes off the white carpeting! I loved the spaces dedicated to learning and study from language skills to music lessons. I thought that was the tops until this January I when I went aboard the Seabourn Soujourn; OMG. How could any ship better its elegance and seamless flow? The spa was like nothing I have ever seen at sea; I only wished I could have curled-up on one of the heated, ergonomic chairs in the relaxation room. Well, after all that along comes Marina and I am in love. What a majorly beautiful ship.

Upon entering the main Atrium you are bedazzled by the magnificent pieces of Lalique crystal that adorn the grand staircase. The necessary offices you would expect to find in the atrium like Reception and Destinations are tucked away unobtrusively giving the impression you are in the gallery of a sumptuous private home. Friends gave me pointers on the things I had to see so I ran about the ship from deck to deck peeking into every possible room. I am not a cruise critic but I have seen my share of ships and this one is truly divine. Here are just some of the high points:

Red Ginger Restaurant

“Red Ginger makes an immediate and powerful statement with its decorative centerpiece: three fabulous, multi-colored Buddha heads, each carved from a single piece of glass and brightly lit from within. Then, with a nod to feng shui, the room unfolds in perfect harmony, the mood a study in tranquility. The décor simply radiates with ebony woods, bronze and hand blown glass light fixtures and eclectic, modern Asian artwork.

To complement the stunning interior, Red Ginger’s chefs have created a striking menu, noted for its contemporary interpretations of Asian classics. You might begin with a Salad of Roast Duck and Watermelon with Cashews, Mint and Thai Basil. Savor a Nutty Braised Beef Malay Curry with Coconut Rice and Paratha Roti. Or Asian-spiced Rack Of Lamb with Kohl Robi, Cream Spinach and Truffle Oil. For dessert, Green Tea Banana Cake with Toffee and Hazelnut Sauce Served with Coconut Ice Cream is the perfect ending. In Red Ginger, the gustatory pleasures are as striking as the visual ones.”

Jacques
“Enter Jacques, the eminent Jacques Pépin’s first restaurant to bear his name on land or sea, and you will be instantly struck by the sensory pleasures. Luscious aromas waft from the gleaming glass and brass show rotisserie in the room’s heart, where duck, pork, chicken and veal roasts slowly turn, sealing in their succulent flavors. Handsomely decorated with rich fabrics, heirloom antiques, pickled wood furnishings and art from Jacques’ personal collection, it resembles a classic Parisian bistro. Exceedingly comfortable and clubby, the ambiance is pure French, as is the cosmopolitan yet wonderfully approachable cuisine.

Chef Pépin has taken the classics, deconstructed them, and then ingeniously re-created each remarkable dish. This is Coq Au Vin beyond the imagination, as you have never tasted it before. Rotisserie-roasted chicken falls off the bone, bursting with flavor. His Steak Frites pairs the succulence of prime beef with the crisp sweetness of pommes de terre. At Jacques, simple classic French cuisine becomes incredibly elegant and, of course, absolutely magnifique.”

Privée

“Privée stands alone as Oceania Cruises’ most indulgent, one-of-a-kind dining experience. Even superlatives pale when describing Marina’s ultimate venue, which you may reserve solely for exclusive parties of as many as ten privileged guests. Opulently decorated with Ferrari Red carpeting, oversized white baby crocodile throne chairs, ornate Baroque millwork, and flanked by backlit onyx-clad walls, the setting for Privée is absolutely exquisite. A custom-made oval table, illuminated by a white Venini glass chandelier, lies at its heart, accentuating the culinary magic that awaits you.

Guests will be able to enjoy a menu selected from Polo Grill, Toscana or a combination of both. Each guest can select their own menu. Within the sanctum of Privée, dining engages all the senses, leaving you and your guests immensely fulfilled. This dining extravaganza can be reserved for $250 per evening for a party of up to 10 guests.”

La Reserve
“La Reserve by Wine Spectator may be the most inspired wine pairing ever. It’s the brilliant union of La Reserve, Marina’s exclusive domain for bons vivants, with Wine Spectator, the foremost magazine for wine connoisseurs. The resulting La Reserve by Wine Spectator is an industry-first onboard wine-tasting center that offers gourmands the opportunity to enjoy a series of seminars and tastings that will enhance your appreciation of fine wine and perfectly paired cuisine.

During the day, you might sample a flight of regional wines that the head sommelier has hand-selected from Marina’s wine cellar. Evenings are a more exclusive affair - for a maximum of 24 guests - allowing for an intimate, epicurean experience. You will be treated to a seven-course gourmet dinner, where each course is delightfully paired with an appropriate premium wine.

For sailings prior to January 1, 2012:
La Reserve dinners are $75 per guest plus 18% gratuity.

For sailings beginning January 1, 2012:
La Reserve dinners are $95 per guest plus 18% gratuity.”

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