Orca super-pod spotted off Robson Bight

Sorry for the delay in posting. I disembarked the 19th of July and spent some time in the dentist chair before flying back home. Happy to report the choppers are still intact and ready for action.

My last cruise was a southbound from Whittier to Vancouver. The weather continued to be less than ideal with low temperatures, a slight drizzle, and overcast skies. As a native of the Pacific Northwest, I know a little about the local weather patterns. When there is a low pressure over Southeast Alaska there is usually a high pressure over the Pacific Northwest. Rain in Juneau means sun in Vancouver and Seattle and visa versa. So, I was counting on the gloom in Southeast giving way to fair skies for the final days of my cruise - one of my favorite areas of the world – the Inside Passage of British Columbia.

Sure enough, as we sailed south, we left the fog and chill of Queen Charlotte Sound and found blue skies and sunshine in the protected waters east of Vancouver Island. We sailed into Alert Bay and did a few 360° turns in front of the community. You can’t help but wonder what people think when they see a huge cruise ship spinning around in the bay. The focus here is The World Tallest Totem Pole! At 173 feet tall, this pole, carved in two sections, is the tallest free-standing totem pole in the world. As it is Cormorant Island’s version of the Eiffel Tower – you gotta stop and look.

We sailed on ever hopeful that as we entered Johnstone Strait we might see killer whales. Killer whales, also known as orca, travel together in groups known as “pods.” Pods can number from a half dozen whales to over a hundred. Marine biologists track the movement of local pods identifying them by their members that can be individually distinguished due to their unique dorsal fins. In British Columbia there are several resident and transient pods – those that stay in one general area vs. those that roam. They are constantly searching for food, so now that the salmon are running you see many near the salmon spanning rivers and streams.

I had already been on the bridge for over two hours. The light of the afternoon sun was gorgeous and I could not pull myself away even though it was time to clean-up for the weekly captain’s farewell party. Just as I was beginning to think I’d have to leave, off in the distance I noticed what looked like a fishing boat that had stopped east of Robson Bight. Even at a distance of well over ten miles I could see big black dorsal fins and strong vertical blow. I watched a while longer before making an announcement – I wanted to be sure. Yup! Killer whales! And it looked like there were lots.

As we approached, I could see blow all around what I thought was a fishing boat. I alerted those who were within ear shot that we were in for a treat! Luckily we had the time to slow down and really see the show. All around us there were whales! Every time we saw one group submerge another group would blow. Tall fins, short fins, and crooked fins were everywhere. There were a few very large males as evidence by huge dorsal fins easily over 6 feet tall! We watched as the adults swam around the calves while other jumped out of the water belly flopping on their prey in what’s called pounce feeding. In total the estimate was about 44 whales – that may have been low.

Seeing that many beautiful whales in this fabulous location was a real gift. I hope that all those that shared that moment realized how special it was. It was a fitting end to two wonderful months cruising in Alaska.

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